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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I do not know if this actually makes any power, some say it does but it is a straight through design with two ported chambers to eliminate either turbo whine, hiss, etc, whatever it was put there for.

Auto part Automotive exhaust Pipe Exhaust system Exhaust manifold

If you wipe a hose down with a bit of solvent it will blacken up real nicely, I just forgot to do it.

I might replace it with a silicone hose at some time but for now used a radiator hose I picked up at NAPA, $22, they are not the cheapest place around.

Part number 8825, 1.75" in and outlets. Any hose with a bend close to the stock hose bend would work as long as the ends past the bend are long enough.

The pipe out of the turbo is 1.5" but the end when cut as below is closer to 1 5/8", the hose clamp will take care of the excess hose size easily.

I cut it as far from the bend that is close to the shape of the factory hose then cut of the donut leaving the area on the turbo side to include where it is a bit larger in diameter than the curved pipe out of the turbo.

It is a close fit but the is enough hose and you can move them around just enough to get a nice clean flow and get over the ends of the pipe far enough that the hose clamps will be tightened to be smaller than diameter than the ends so they cannot slip off.

It was easier to just take the turbo outlet pipe(loosen the top clamp and take the hose connector with the pipe still in place) and then remove the bolts holding the bottom pipe to the oil pan and loosen the house on the output of that pipe, forward end, remove in one section.

I have not driven the car yet to see if any difference.

Weight saved was minimal at around 4 oz.

At some point I will probably replace all hoses and tubes with a custom aluminum setup, silicone hoses, etc..

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I originally put the below image in then deleted it and put the new one above but somehow the one below shows up attached and I cannot figure out how to delete it, first time I have seen this when posting on a forum, image above is much better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am holding off buying parts until I finish my research to decide exactly what to get and from where, what to make myself, etc....but I had to do at least something and had errands to run today so just did this little mod for some fun.

I plan to have a catted downpipe, exhaust, IC upgrade but looking for a core to do my own if nothing comes out for a price that is reasonable, probably front brakes, looking at chassis bracing, RMM (which I could make easily)

I was looking at the turbo today, mouse that it is, I am surprised we can run to 6.2k with it, a bit bigger would be very nice indeed to lessen the instant torque with a tune into a more rounded torque/HP blend. It would still have plenty of bottom end but could make more HP with less boost, less heat for us track junkies, etc.....

I hope there is something we can do soon to help that.

The exhaust side housing is almost smaller than the turbine wheel on the system I built for my 2.4 tc !
 

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Theres a dude on SVTP that put a Gtx28 on a FoST recently, and on a base tune at stock boost it made 100whp more than the stock turbo! Granted its a 2.0, but I think its a good representation of how restrictive the stockers are. I'd like to see if theres any benefit to the donut mod!
 

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Theres a dude on SVTP that put a Gtx28 on a FoST recently, and on a base tune at stock boost it made 100whp more than the stock turbo! Granted its a 2.0, but I think its a good representation of how restrictive the stockers are. I'd like to see if theres any benefit to the donut mod!
We have the benefit of an actual exhaust manifold too, so we could probably squeeze out some aditional flow replacing that, where as the FoST has that stupid elbow and their manifold is literally a part of the cylinder head (wtf)



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We have the benefit of an actual exhaust manifold too, so we could probably squeeze out some aditional flow replacing that, where as the FoST has that stupid elbow and their manifold is literally a part of the cylinder head (wtf)
That is going to be the main limiting factor on the FoST


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That is going to be the main limiting factor on the FoST


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Yeah I wonder when that'll be the primary restriction point. ATP already has a FoST in the 12's, idk how much further it'll go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wonder what the limit is with the direct injection, cost if needed to upgrade, etc.......?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry, car is on stands, soon to be on my lift once I put a suspension on the ti shell on there right now, not driving the car until I do some serious mods to it.
 

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Sorry, car is on stands, soon to be on my lift once I put a suspension on the ti shell on there right now, not driving the car until I do some serious mods to it.
Okay, you won't be driving it until you do some serious mods to it? Like what? Its a DD

and also....

 

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If i didn't have to cut the donut to make this happen, I would be much more likely to do it. As it is, i will be under the hood this weekend working on a few things and may wind up doing something to get rid of it. I bought the napa hose suggested. I may check for the ford part # price before cutting it.

I don't have an access port yet so I am not sure anything I do will make any gains. Seems like some of us think that the ecu learns what we do and counters it to keep the power and torque at certain levels. Correct me if this is wrong.
 

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I do not know if this actually makes any power, some say it does but it is a straight through design with two ported chambers to eliminate either turbo whine, hiss, etc, whatever it was put there for.

I did not take pictures as it is such a simple task I was done before I though about it.

I might replace it with a silicone hose at some time but for now used a radiator hose I picked up at NAPA, $22, they are not the cheapest place around.

Part number 8825, 1.75" in and outlets. Any hose with a bend close to the stock hose bend would work as long as the ends past the bend are long enough.

The pipe out of the turbo is 1.5" but the end when cut as below is closer to 1 5/8", the hose clamp will take care of the excess hose size easily.

I cut it as far from the bend that is close to the shape of the factory hose then cut of the donut leaving the area on the turbo side to include where it is a bit larger in diameter than the curved pipe out of the turbo.

It is a close fit but the is enough hose and you can move them around just enough to get a nice clean flow and get over the ends of the pipe far enough that the hose clamps will be tightened to be smaller than diameter than the ends so they cannot slip off.

It was easier to just take the turbo outlet pipe(loosen the top clamp and take the hose connector with the pipe still in place) and then remove the bolts holding the bottom pipe to the oil pan and loosen the house on the output of that pipe, forward end, remove in one section.

I have not driven the car yet to see if any difference.

Weight saved was minimal at around 4 oz.

At some point I will probably replace all hoses and tubes with a custom aluminum setup, silicone hoses, etc..
Saw this a few months ago check the veloster forums. They have the same donut. Removing it they got between 8 and 13hp gains on top. But lost some torque low down.
Im getting piece of pipe bent and the ends beaded so that the clamps dont slip off of the pipe.
 

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If i didn't have to cut the donut to make this happen, I would be much more likely to do it. As it is, i will be under the hood this weekend working on a few things and may wind up doing something to get rid of it. I bought the napa hose suggested. I may check for the ford part # price before cutting it.

I don't have an access port yet so I am not sure anything I do will make any gains. Seems like some of us think that the ecu learns what we do and counters it to keep the power and torque at certain levels. Correct me if this is wrong.
You are correct. As KEN from MOUNTUNE will tell you, the ECU has a set threshold for maximum power and torque - it will LIMIT your output if the motor is exceeding this "goal" torque/hp output figure. So basically the biggest thing an AP will do for you is de-limit the car by turning off this feature as well as Torque Truncation (active in gears 1, 2 & R) - in addition an AP will add 30lb/ft of torque, 300rpm to your redline, among other things.

Before I had my AccessPORT STOLEN I installed the Stage 0 map, which is stock except with all the limiters disabled. I would've been so fucked if it had been stolen with the economy map loaded that limits to 5psi. but at least until I get a replacement AP the car will respond to mods correctly.
 

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You are correct. As KEN from MOUNTUNE will tell you, the ECU has a set threshold for maximum power and torque - it will LIMIT your output if the motor is exceeding this "goal" torque/hp output figure. So basically the biggest thing an AP will do for you is de-limit the car by turning off this feature as well as Torque Truncation (active in gears 1, 2 & R) - in addition an AP will add 30lb/ft of torque, 300rpm to your redline, among other things.

Before I had my AccessPORT STOLEN I installed the Stage 0 map, which is stock except with all the limiters disabled. I would've been so fucked if it had been stolen with the economy map loaded that limits to 5psi. but at least until I get a replacement AP the car will respond to mods correctly.
I do still think the car is kind of torque limited with the tune. Either that or its just a weird coincidence that everyone who dynos this car is hitting right around 250tq, regardless of mods haha



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It is and cobbs tunes are kinda soft. What i mean to say theres a lot more to be achieved. Have you seen the superchipa bluefin for eu spec fist? Claims 231hp and 237tq with just the tune. Thats almost 40 more hp. I know that tune doesnt work on usdm spec. Cobbs tunes are more in the safe/ reliable zone wich i like. But i bet that when people start custom tuning there a going.to be a lot good numbera
 

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I wonder what the limit is with the direct injection, cost if needed to upgrade, etc.......?
I've got a stock injector ordered and we'll be taking a look at work.

I have the 3.5L and 2.0L Ecoboost injectors in house, already. We'll see how the 1.6L injector stacks up. We've got a few prototype sets on their way out to guys in the industry that need them.

I do still think the car is kind of torque limited with the tune. Either that or its just a weird coincidence that everyone who dynos this car is hitting right around 250tq, regardless of mods haha
I know the 3.5L Ecoboosts have upper limits. One of our beta testers had a difficulty getting the F150 to let them use the bigger turbos much beyond the stock boost levels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
BE VERY CAREFUL who you let custom tune your car, I have had to engines blown by so called "expert tuners" the only engines I have blown in 46 years of modding and racing cars!

With the sensors in place on these and all modern cars I do not think you have much to worry about in a custom tune then moving to a lower altitude unless it is done on the ragged edge which really should not be done anyway.

Then again, I am not a tuner nor care to be, I could but I have had more than my share of electronics in 20 years in the USN.

CUTTING THE DONUT off the pipe, easy, could easily be welded back on if ever needed, the way I did it the hose cannot slip off either, less expensive than having a custom pipe made;)

I were doing a custom pipe I would go all the way to the pipe bolted to the oil pan or even include it but have to compensate somewhere for the size change unless you can find a 1.5 to 2" silicone coupler.
 
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