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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I was driving on the highway and there was an off-ramp loop that brought us to another highway. I had to lower my speed from 80 to <40ish. During the loop, I tried to downshift to 4th gear but I accidentally went to 2nd instead. I rev-matched like I usually do, but the car jerked for a second or two when I shifted it to the correct gear. Should I be concerned? Should I get it checked out? It has less than 500 miles on it. Thanks.
 

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Opps, I wouldn't worry about it but I also wouldn't do it again.

Keep in mind that you are still in the break in period so I wouldn't be so rough on her.
 

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Not 100% sold on that technique.

For a good 6 > 4 shift. Push the shift knob up to neutral then just pull straight back. Should be able to this quickly with just a slight pause.
 

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Could've been a money shift... Hope everythings okay, I think everyone's done that at some point in a manual trans car.
 

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Yeah, I have the break-in instructions from the forum in my glove compartment. Going to get an oil change soon.

Also going to start doing this: UUC Motorwerks • short shifting techniques
I was taught this technique when learning to drive a Formula 2000 car - it had a 4 speed manual, so only 2 shift planes. I don't really consider it applicable for cars with a 6 speed. I think that a lot of people driving these cars are trying to rifle through the gears as fast as they can. Great for the drag strip but a waste of time on the street or on a road course for that matter. Take a look at a video of a professional driving a car on a road course. Their shifts are always slow and deliberate. These Fiesta's have a very strong centring action in the 3-4 plane - use that to your advantage. Pull the lever out of 5th and let it centre itself before you pull it into 4th. There have been a couple of reports on these forums of guys getting excited and making the 5 to 2 downshift. Bad for your valve train.
Reminds me of the old story of the old bull and the young bull surveying a herd of cows. The young bull says to the old bull "Let's run down there and f*#k one of those cows". The old bull looks at the young bull and says "Why don't we just walk down there and f*#k them all".
Take your time. Your car will last longer. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What would you guys do in this situation:

Say you're going 60mph then you see a red light and you want to take a sharp right. While approaching it, you drop ~27. Then you notice the light change to green and need to take the turn and accelerate out.

Do you:
A. go from 6-5-4-3, take the turn in gear
B. stay in 6th, hit the breaks until 30, downshift to 3rd, take the turn in gear and accelerate out
C. Drive in 6th, use the brakes, disengage the clutch, shift in third, take the turn, then engage the turn and accelerate out.

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B. Skip shift to the proper gear, during braking and before turn-in for the corner.

...for a 30mph turn, I'd probably take it in 2nd. :)

If you are curious about performance shifting, I would recommend reading Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley.
 

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I skip shift all the time but always slow down close to the proper speed and then smoothly letting out the clutch, on the street not a big deal, take my time, etc...on a mountain run a bit more aggressively done but then again not as many skips needed usually, on track, I do it at the end of longer straights the most.

This thread is about general driving more than all out driving but when all out there are those that believe heal and toe is the only way to drive but there are have been some incredibly successful race drivers that do not use that method. I have been to school on it and just never seems to work right for me but that might be some nerve damage caused by being electrocuted, as in blown clear out of a buidling by a 220 V 50 amp circuit when somebody decided to flip a breaker out of curiosity while I was wiring in their pool pump room....So, I have a different method that works for me and I am a very late braker on track.

Just as first mentioned, but in this order, off the gas and onto the brakes and hard, slip in the clutch and slide out of the gear I am in, as slowing into the turn(I prefer braking all the way to the apex, some do nearly all the braking in a straight line) I have a ton of time to pick my gear for exiting the corner and then slide out the clutch soothly while letting off the brake smoothly and smoothly rolling onto the throttle.

This can be a very fast way to drive, keeping the car stable, easier on tires, clutch, gear box, less chance of running off course......it might be a bit more hard on the brakes but they are cheaper and easier to take care of than all the above and with proper cooling, not a bid issue.

I have came very close to a money shift, we have all done it most likely, but since I let the clutch out slowly I have always known it before fully disengaged or over revved.

I have a shift light I use now, programmable with 3 RPMS dialed in, just under redline, redline and slightly over,I never have to use the tach on track with it.

First rev is to let you know time to shift or in some cases just lift a bit and float to the next corner, saves an up and down shift and less chance of upsetting the car, smoother in, smoother out, faster. Second is actually just before my chosen redline to give reaction time to shift at the real redline. Third lights up bright and flashing so if I miss my downshift I know it before fully letting out the clutch instead of having to even listen for it.

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I have only seen a little mentioning of it, will the AP work as not only a shift light but a programmable one with more than one setting? If so I will give that a try and leave out the shift light, less is better if you can make it work, always:)
 

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I regularly skip gears shifting up and down, not so much up in the FiST but in the vette it makes sense. When downshifting; I generally double clutch and rev match as i have plenty of time if I am cutting off that much speed or just shifting into the power band on the street. On the track I skip gears from 5-3 at RA into 1 and 5. Into 1 its easy to double clutch cause the braking isn't complicated. Seen too many cars totaled into 5 I will risk synco/clutch wear over wrecking, so i just give it a big blip.
 

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I did this exact same thing today, getting on the freeway entrance ramp. :mad:

I released the clutch fairly quickly into 2nd, and immediately realized my error. The car roared and the engine light came on, with a message on the display saying to turn the engine off. I got off at the next exit, and at the stop light the car started sputtering. I managed to get it over off the road and turn it off. I waited about 5 minutes and turned it on. Car started fine, no sputtering, and the engine light was gone. I ran a vehicle health report and everything checked out ok. I suspect the fuel cut off mechanism had kicked in. Still, I'm not confident I didn't do some real damage. I'll be keeping an eye on it this week.
 

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Better to not skip a shift even if you do not let out the clutch, 6th to 5th then to 4th, it is designed with the detents and other aspecs to follow that pattern.

Also if you stiffen up the linkage with bushings, etc, you will have far better feedback and less likely to error.

Even in racing I ease out the clutch on downshifts and listen, no time to look at the tach, starts revving to high I just push the pedal back in until I am going slower.

I can hear the revs and see the tach better in this car than others I have built but still going to install the 3 way shift light I have.

These are tough little engines, my red line is now at 7400 but I have enough power I do not rev that high often, missing the downshift may of not even over revved it but high RPM downshifts sure put a lot of load on the timing chain.
 

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I did this exact same thing today, getting on the freeway entrance ramp. :mad:

I released the clutch fairly quickly into 2nd, and immediately realized my error. The car roared and the engine light came on, with a message on the display saying to turn the engine off. I got off at the next exit, and at the stop light the car started sputtering. I managed to get it over off the road and turn it off. I waited about 5 minutes and turned it on. Car started fine, no sputtering, and the engine light was gone. I ran a vehicle health report and everything checked out ok. I suspect the fuel cut off mechanism had kicked in. Still, I'm not confident I didn't do some real damage. I'll be keeping an eye on it this week.




Luckily it's not happened to me yet. But has done in a previous car :/ Sometimes I do go from fourth to second but I rarely use sixth unless cruising in the highway. Six to second - That's obliviously a massive gap but it sounds like you'll be OK this time. Like raam said these proving to be tough little engines.

These are tough little engines, my red line is now at 7400 but I have enough power I do not rev that high often, missing the downshift may of not even over revved it but high RPM downshifts sure put a lot of load on the timing chain.
I'm 99% sure we have an long interval timing belt.

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I think you are right, a belt, I have to look it up:)

I will sometimes skip a shift but only when slowing down easily and take my time, let out the clutch when really slow so low RPMs or just coming to a stop and just going to first and keep the clutch in.

I became much more cautious when I was blowing to much money on BMW's and saw to many reports of the "money shift", stock engines bad enough but $20-30k race engines, ouch!

Luckily I missed out on blowing one then just gave up on thier engines and went to LS power, far less costly to build and tune, more power easily made, better CG...
 

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I skip shift all the time but always slow down close to the proper speed and then smoothly letting out the clutch, on the street not a big deal, take my time, etc...on a mountain run a bit more aggressively done but then again not as many skips needed usually, on track, I do it at the end of longer straights the most.

This thread is about general driving more than all out driving but when all out there are those that believe heal and toe is the only way to drive but there are have been some incredibly successful race drivers that do not use that method. I have been to school on it and just never seems to work right for me but that might be some nerve damage caused by being electrocuted, as in blown clear out of a buidling by a 220 V 50 amp circuit when somebody decided to flip a breaker out of curiosity while I was wiring in their pool pump room....So, I have a different method that works for me and I am a very late braker on track.

Just as first mentioned, but in this order, off the gas and onto the brakes and hard, slip in the clutch and slide out of the gear I am in, as slowing into the turn(I prefer braking all the way to the apex, some do nearly all the braking in a straight line) I have a ton of time to pick my gear for exiting the corner and then slide out the clutch soothly while letting off the brake smoothly and smoothly rolling onto the throttle.

This can be a very fast way to drive, keeping the car stable, easier on tires, clutch, gear box, less chance of running off course......it might be a bit more hard on the brakes but they are cheaper and easier to take care of than all the above and with proper cooling, not a bid issue.

I have came very close to a money shift, we have all done it most likely, but since I let the clutch out slowly I have always known it before fully disengaged or over revved.

I have a shift light I use now, programmable with 3 RPMS dialed in, just under redline, redline and slightly over,I never have to use the tach on track with it.

First rev is to let you know time to shift or in some cases just lift a bit and float to the next corner, saves an up and down shift and less chance of upsetting the car, smoother in, smoother out, faster. Second is actually just before my chosen redline to give reaction time to shift at the real redline. Third lights up bright and flashing so if I miss my downshift I know it before fully letting out the clutch instead of having to even listen for it.

-----------

I have only seen a little mentioning of it, will the AP work as not only a shift light but a programmable one with more than one setting? If so I will give that a try and leave out the shift light, less is better if you can make it work, always:)

It's never really worked for me either, but never felt I actually needed it either...to each their own.
 

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I have been complemented many times on my driving and car setup by professional instructors and when I went to a 3 day Vette school they offered to fly me down and pay me to help teach on a big Vette meet weekend coming up knowing I was not heel and toe driving.

I still work on it sometimes though to see if I can get it right and considering a gas pedal spacer and wider pedals to see if perhaps I can do it in this car.

Many consider it the only way to be fast but that is just not true, someday I will dig up that old article that listed all the famous drivers that did not do so, world class champions:)

Rick
 

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I did this exact same thing today, getting on the freeway entrance ramp. :mad:

I released the clutch fairly quickly into 2nd, and immediately realized my error. The car roared and the engine light came on, with a message on the display saying to turn the engine off. I got off at the next exit, and at the stop light the car started sputtering. I managed to get it over off the road and turn it off. I waited about 5 minutes and turned it on. Car started fine, no sputtering, and the engine light was gone. I ran a vehicle health report and everything checked out ok. I suspect the fuel cut off mechanism had kicked in. Still, I'm not confident I didn't do some real damage. I'll be keeping an eye on it this week.
Fuel cut isn't going to help with a mechanical overrev. You might have gotten lucky.
 

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Yeah, I figured. I was trying to figure out why it stalled.

Either way, I've driven about 200 miles since then and everything is running fine. No funny noises and the engine is plenty responsive, so yeah, I think I got lucky. :D
 
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