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The F106 fumoto drain valve does not fit. There simply is not enough clearance between the side of the valve, and the part of the oil pan closest to the drain. I couldn't even make one full revolution to get it threaded in, it just smacks against the pan and won't turn. I guess I'll return mine to Amazon. :(
 

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These things freak me out for a few reasons:
1. What if the valve fails somehow or is otherwise knocked open or broken off by road debris? The likelihood, while low, is higher than with a conventional drain bolt.
2. Does the drain pan drain fully? The threads protrude into the pan and could prevent all the particulate matter from draining.

I guess I never understood the point of these things. Removing a drain pan bolt isn't hard. Why the need to reinvent the wheel? To each their own, I just don't see why.
 

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These things freak me out for a few reasons:
1. What if the valve fails somehow or is otherwise knocked open or broken off by road debris? The likelihood, while low, is higher than with a conventional drain bolt.
2. Does the drain pan drain fully? The threads protrude into the pan and could prevent all the particulate matter from draining.

I guess I never understood the point of these things. Removing a drain pan bolt isn't hard. Why the need to reinvent the wheel? To each their own, I just don't see why.
1 - The valve is pretty fool-proof. It has a strong spring pushing a washer/ring onto the lever/locking tab, which pushes it down into a notch. The spring is beefy - It's pretty tough to move the lever. And with the drain plug facing rearward, I wasn't too worried of it scraping or knocking against anything.
2 - I suppose this is the most legitimate issue. But this alone wouldn't bother me too much, as you can never really get all of the old oil out in the first place, so it wouldn't make too much difference, IMO. Well, and for me personally, I am very fortunate to have access to a lift at work, so I can easily hike the front end up a few degrees higher than the rear to tilt it back enough to get the rest to drain.

As for why, I bought it for two reasons:

1. Would never have to worry about stripping threads again
2. Would never need tools for an oil change again
3. The drain plug crush gasket from Ford is like $5-$6, so this valve would pay for itself after about 6 oil changes, or 30,000 miles, so it seemed like there was nothing to lose.

And slightly cleaner oil changes, I guess. Unfortunately it just won't work with this style, but it's not a huge huge deal. $28 and a lesson learned!
 

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FWIW someone on FiestaSTForum.com linked me to this adapter:



But now... ehh. Not so sure. Before, the end of the plug would sit flush with the end of the oil pan, meaning if I did back into anything big it the pressure wouldn't all be on the plug. But now it would stick out another inch or two, not sure if it's worth it at that point.
 

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Yeah, needing that adapter might put it into risky business... I've had my fair share of busted oil pans, but that's why I don't drive a VW any more :). Good to know that the adapter is required for anyone who may purchase one. Looks like it'll be a magnetic plug for me,
 
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