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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok looking to ditch my 35lb plus battery for a lighter on but i wonder if the 6.9 lb B106 Braile will have enough to crank the car should it stall for what ever reason at the track..

Automotive battery Product Battery Technology Electronic device


Open to any or all options at this point I an NOT looking to relocate the battery at this time.



 

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i only had the balls to run a odyssey 625. its 13.2 lbs. Mind you this was in a DD but started my sti fine. its lower compression then our cars but could start it after 3-4 days sitting in the wisconsin winter. Though it cranked slow. Normal day to day it cranked perfectly if started daily. i assume these baby brailes work fine for the track but I would have to swap it out for street use.
 

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Geeeeeez, I knew the stock battery was big, but not 35lbs big!!
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Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk



 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I'll had to get out the old non calibrated bathroom scale next time i have it out to make sure... And I will have to look into Deka again..
The stock battery will be fine for DD this is just a playtime weight saver..

We had one of theseB14115 11lb Batteries in the Miata we ran last year. It worked great for that car.
Automotive battery Product Battery Technology Electronic device




 
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Check this company out. they have a 3 lb battery I will get. A little pricey but I think it will be worth it. check out there jump starter video. pretty amazing.

Antigravity Batteries- The lightest, smallest and most powerful Lithium-Ion Motorcycld Batteries

Antigravity Batteries the lightest most powerful and compact Lithium Motorcycle and Powersports Batteries
Lithium batterys are awesome but they cost so damn much and can cause some voltage issues. Thats like a whole track day!
 

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I was going to mention Li but already covered.

I used to move the battery to the rear of the car, have done so many times, but with these tiny batteries no need to move them to the rear and they are OK for most DD situations.

Only reason to keep a big battery is if you have amps for the audio system, etc.....why I have installed PC1200 in the rear of some cars, had to add in the weight of the cable as well but then the amps were right there near the battery, I would of had to run the cable back to them if the battery was up front anyway.

I have ran many PC680 and they are great and with the modern very low weight, highly efficient amps I might get by with one or something similar..

Not positive but I think the Braille are the same inside as Odyssey, just cost more;)

I most highly recommend a battery tender, not that particular brand as have not used, I use the CTEK ones now, just returned from 4 months away, shop was not heated directly so just above freezing much of the winter, alarms in cars there would of killed the batteries, they fired right up as fully charged.

I lost two new Odyssey batteries and one used one during an extra cold winter, they were in the far corner of the shop and not hooked up.....I forgot to put them in the front corner where the heat from the house would of protected them. Even expensive batteries need to be taken care of.

The weight savings alone going to an 11 lb battery is a huge performance gain for very reasonable cost.

The Li batteries gain/cost ratio is far higher so you might gain more from spending the money elsewhere but do consider weight effects every single aspect of performance and to a degree fuel mileage for daily use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ill have to look into Odyessy and yes I learned a long time ago on our ATV with early FI that kept active memory hence draining the battery now I have a few around. and They do work..
Braile has some Li batteries but I think a cool grand ($1000) and up is a bit spendy for the gain.. But they look cool LOL



 

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I saw an article somewhere about a DIY Li battery, it seems I know who did it, personally, I will have to dig in and find it and will post if anything interesting comes up:)
 

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Welp the order is going in for the 11lb Braille, only thing I'm not sure of is if the factory hold-down will work with it or if I'll end up buying their overpriced tie down lol. I'll keep y'all updated.
 

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Thanks for the link:)

I have more research to do and decided I do not want to take the time to make my own so theirs looks quite promising and not a bad price considering all things. I still might have to use a heavier glass mat battery though, not sure about running an audio system for any length of time with engine off for demo use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Had my Stock battery out and decided to toss it on my not so high tech scale and it weighs 29.5 lbs so not as bad as I thought ...



 

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It is not a huge battery so the weight is lower than most but that is still a lot of weight in the front of a heavily front biased car.

I removed the complete back seat, spare tire, cargo cover, seat belts, jack, etc...125.4 lbs, carefully weighed.

I also weighed the stock cargo floor panel, 7 lbs, total of all these is 132.4lbs!!!

I will be making a cargo bin for the tire well to hold a small sub, maybe the amp but I might put the amp under the front seats as plenty of room and it weighs very little, around 3-4 lbs as have not gotten in the new model yet, doing so will save that much weight in power cable alone to go all the way back.

I will also have an emergency survival kit including an alcohol stove in cold weather, some water, minimalist tool package and tire repair kit.

Considering putting a window washer reservoir in there as well as may use the fog light openings for brake ducts.

Then I will build a new floor and any other panels out of Alumalite and some channel and some angle and adding in a big net to secure an area for the dogs.

I am estimating 40lbs maximum weight added back which I will removed for the track.

Thus:
Even more forward weight bias so a low weight battery is a must as I am also installing a bigger intercooler,
I will leave off the engine cover most likely and remove and bracket, brace, clip, etc....that has no purpose, most cars have plenty of those, some not much but it is all dead weight there to ease manf or changes per model...

I just thought of another idea, if I put an amp under the seat I can put the battery under the other one as have to run a cable to the location anyway. Normally I put the battery all the way in the rear so I will do the load calculation and see what the added cable will weigh, it has to be of thicker gauge the longer it is so the part forward of the seat will also weigh more, dependent on what gauge has to be used just to get to under the front seats that is.

BBK, I am working on an idea to fit one under the 15" wheels I plan to run to save more weight and hopefully get more brake!

For now, 11.75x1.25 rotors may fit.

Wheels and tires, 15x9 is being explored, 225/45/15 Hoosier R6 for track, 31 lbs, that is a huge savings.

293 miles and the car is half apart on my lift to explore and work out the best changes to make it a better car in all ways, fit our needs better, etc......having a blast so far:)

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
225 on nine inch wheels will work well I bet .. Looking forward to more on the BBK for 15's will it use 4x108 drilled rotors or the 4x100 you have entioned other places ?
Yes even with a 7 lb battery it is still 22 lbs of weight off the nose.. not a bad thing for track days ;)



 

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i went from a 32 to 13 lb battery in my sti. I didn't expect anything, but turn in was clearly sharper. And that was on a fairly heavy car. Reducing that nose weight is everything, i would be 15 lbs is noticeable in these cars. Don't feel you need the lightest battery ever for it to make a difference.

If you really want to drop good weight, pull the front bumper beam. :D
 
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