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Today we took our little Fiesta out for some spirited driving and wanted to see how it felt cruising around some cones. I have to say, it felt pretty nimble and a blast to drive. But I will say that it felt like it could use some improvement. We looked around for a bit and decided to throw on a set of the Pro Kit springs from Eibach. We have run these on the shop Focus ST for over a year now with nothing but great things to say about them. They perform well on track day, and they are very easy to live with on a day to day basis. They aren’t too stiff and doesn’t ride like a wagon.
While we were installing these springs, we documented our installation and wanted to share it with you guys for informational purposes. Keep in mind that If you’re not familiar with suspension parts, or spring compression, you probably should take your car to a shop and have them install it. Also, as with any suspension change, be sure to take your car to get an alignment shortly after getting your springs installed. No matter how well you think you have them set up, chances are, they are at least a little whacky.
Here’s a blurb from Eibach about them:
The Eibach Pro-Kit precisely lowers your car's center of gravity, reducing squat during acceleration, body roll in corners and excessive nose-dive under braking. When combined with Plus-1 or Plus-2 wheels and tires, the Eibach Pro-Kit is the finishing touch to a winning recipe for performance. Pro-Kit also reduces excessive fender-well clearance, making your car look just as hot as it performs.
Here are some technical specifications:
For more information, click here: Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs Ford Fiesta ST 2014 35143.140 at RallySportDirect.com
Here’s a picture of the springs waiting to get installed, you can see this is a very simple, basic kit so you won’t have to worry about changing bump stops, or any other suspension parts.
For a quick over view of what we need to take off, here’s a shot of the bolts and nuts and clips we need to remove that are behind the tire/wheel. These are all pretty easy to remove. Don’t let it intimidate you! We don’t have a picture of it, but we marked the top hat and strut tower for reference for re-installing the strut. This is a good time to do this so you know what direction the top hat needs to be when re-installing the struts.
Here are the three strut tower upper nuts that need to come off on the passenger side
And these are the bolts on the driver’s side. Note: you have to move the master cylinder reservoir out of the way to get to these bolts. There are 2 10 mm bolts holding it on.
Now we have room to get to the 3 13 mm bolts behind the reservoir.
Now that we have those loose, we can move on to the fender well, we took the end link loose first. We used our impact to break it loose and had to grab our 3/16 allen wrench to hold the stud while using our 15 mm wrench to get it off all the way.
Now there is a rubber grommet holding the abs line in place, as well as a zip tie, just pull the rubber grommet out of the sleeve, and cut the zip tie and it will be free.
Holding the brake line in place is a 10 mm bolt through a bracket on the side of the strut, simply remove the bolt and the brake line will be loose.
Next we’ll get the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle on removed. These are a little odd, as the head is a 15 mm and the nut is an 18 mm. We marked the bolts and strut and spindle so we could get the strut as close to factory specs as we could before taking it to get the alignment done. This isn’t perfect, we still need to align the car, but this is a way you can get it close enough not to cause too much damage on the way to the alignment shop.
Now that we have them marked, we can remove them.
While we were installing these springs, we documented our installation and wanted to share it with you guys for informational purposes. Keep in mind that If you’re not familiar with suspension parts, or spring compression, you probably should take your car to a shop and have them install it. Also, as with any suspension change, be sure to take your car to get an alignment shortly after getting your springs installed. No matter how well you think you have them set up, chances are, they are at least a little whacky.
Here’s a blurb from Eibach about them:
The Eibach Pro-Kit precisely lowers your car's center of gravity, reducing squat during acceleration, body roll in corners and excessive nose-dive under braking. When combined with Plus-1 or Plus-2 wheels and tires, the Eibach Pro-Kit is the finishing touch to a winning recipe for performance. Pro-Kit also reduces excessive fender-well clearance, making your car look just as hot as it performs.
Here are some technical specifications:
Mfgr. Warranty: | Million Mile |
Adjustable: | No |
Drop Height Front: | .8 in |
Drop Height Rear: | .7 in |
Drop Height Front Metric: | 20mm |
Drop Height Rear Metric: | 18mm |
For more information, click here: Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs Ford Fiesta ST 2014 35143.140 at RallySportDirect.com
Here’s a picture of the springs waiting to get installed, you can see this is a very simple, basic kit so you won’t have to worry about changing bump stops, or any other suspension parts.

For a quick over view of what we need to take off, here’s a shot of the bolts and nuts and clips we need to remove that are behind the tire/wheel. These are all pretty easy to remove. Don’t let it intimidate you! We don’t have a picture of it, but we marked the top hat and strut tower for reference for re-installing the strut. This is a good time to do this so you know what direction the top hat needs to be when re-installing the struts.

Here are the three strut tower upper nuts that need to come off on the passenger side

And these are the bolts on the driver’s side. Note: you have to move the master cylinder reservoir out of the way to get to these bolts. There are 2 10 mm bolts holding it on.




Now we have room to get to the 3 13 mm bolts behind the reservoir.



Now that we have those loose, we can move on to the fender well, we took the end link loose first. We used our impact to break it loose and had to grab our 3/16 allen wrench to hold the stud while using our 15 mm wrench to get it off all the way.


Now there is a rubber grommet holding the abs line in place, as well as a zip tie, just pull the rubber grommet out of the sleeve, and cut the zip tie and it will be free.



Holding the brake line in place is a 10 mm bolt through a bracket on the side of the strut, simply remove the bolt and the brake line will be loose.


Next we’ll get the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle on removed. These are a little odd, as the head is a 15 mm and the nut is an 18 mm. We marked the bolts and strut and spindle so we could get the strut as close to factory specs as we could before taking it to get the alignment done. This isn’t perfect, we still need to align the car, but this is a way you can get it close enough not to cause too much damage on the way to the alignment shop.




Now that we have them marked, we can remove them.

