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I've had my 2014 FiST for a few months now... Had the dealer install MP215 kit at the time of purchase. Had a few little issues but always felt as though the car with the MP215 was the same, if not slower than other stock FiST's that I had driven. Only getting 17.7psi boost in 3rd, WOT. Dealer agreed to look into it and it's booked to go to the dealer, however....

This week, I drive to work about 5am - it's pretty cool outside, low teens (celcius). No noticable issues on the drive, but I park and notice the fans going full speed after I shut it down and lock the car.

About 9:30 pm driving home on the highway on cruise control about 115km/h, probably between 17-19 degrees C outside. All of a sudden car starts decelerating... I hit the cruise control UP button, keeps going down. Hit it again, goes down again. Hit the accelerator - no power. Then the red temp light flashes, I get an alarm bell ring, then the power comes back and I continue home. Fans going full speed for quite a while after shutdown.

Check the coolant in the morning - well below minimum. Top it up.

Drive to work again in the morning, same thing - no issues, but fans going full speed after parking. Drive home again about the same time of night, I park and I'm sitting in the car at idle and all of a sudden the temp gauge goes all the way to high. I shut it down. coolant below minimum again....

I'm not driving it anymore until it goes to the dealer on Saturday.
 

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Got my car back, they said it had a leak at the clamp on the turbo....

Anyway, send to be ok now.

But am wondering does anyone know what the optimal operating temperatures are? I've been monitoring my temperatures in the mTune handset, but sunny know what is normal...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
A year later, and back for another update--that replaced valve did abso-friggin-lutely nothing to fix the problem. It was back to overheating the next week. Back into the dealer for multiple fixes, all of which did nothing. I flushed the coolant, and did as high of a dilution as was recommended. Still did nothing, just had to get used to driving home with the heater on and pulling over a few times every day. Now that it's heating up for summer again, the problem's back. At least with the 17S09 recall I can get some reimbursement for the out-of-warranty repair costs, but meanwhile I'm stuck with a borderline non-functioning car with no warranty and that I owe more than it's worth on.

So long story short, I've preordered a Tesla Model 3 and I'm offloading the ST for a beater car as soon as I'm able. It was fun while it lasted.
 

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I was scheduled to take my 2016 FiST in to get the drip rail moldings replaced. 17500 miles and they started to peel off. 4 days to service appointment and I have my ST out in the drive way on with the AC on to cool it down. Was about 105 degrees out, left it on for about 10 minutes. Get in and the coolant light is on and flashing and the beeping. Temperature bar is all the way over to H. Drive it down the street and it starts to cool down Abit. Call Ford and tell them they're going to have to look at that too while its there. Next day early morning driving around town mid 90s and it's starts to overheat again. Take it Ford and they are able to replicate the overheat. They replace the, coolant, thermostat and radiator (which was on back order) took 3 weeks to get it. All is fine so far. I've left it idling with the AC on in about 95 degrees for more than 10 minutes and no overheat. Just thought I'd throw this out there for those who haven't found a solution.
 
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I have a 2016 that I picked up used with 13k miles and it started to overheat a few days after I got it. I've basically learned how to deal with it. If the car has been out in the hot sun all day and I dare turn the AC on, even on low, the coolant temps will creep up to around 220s and if I even touch boost, then the temps will raise +10 sharply and by that time I have to let off the gas and just use cruise control. I usually will just turn the AC off because even if I hit boost and thrash the car around it'll take a little while longer before temps get to dangerous levels. So I run without AC 90% of the time which is absolutely horrible especially in Florida during summer stuck behind constant tourist traffic. It sucks. I recently switched to using 5W-30 oil and I've actually seen overall temps staying lower than before. I still see coolant get up to 230 before I let off but I can use AC in the day time now but I have to drive slowly and not hit boost as often which is guess is fine when I'm just commuting. I've taken it to the dealership and they could never replicate the problem which I found to be absurd and they just waste my gas every time I go so I don't even try anymore so I'm just waiting to get a Mishimoto radiator with their thermostat and all appropriate hoses hoping that will fix everything. It really sucks that these cars have this stupid cooling issue because it's an other wise amazing car.
 

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Anyone experiencing slow coolant leaks and over heating... have your head gaskets checked!! Factory head studs are weak as shit and the gasket fails nearest to the turbo!

From experience.

Also, FORDS official fix is to tighten down the factory headstuds... which is only a bandaid...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Is this a U.S isolated thing having these overheat? I run the A/C all the time here is Australia and never had any issues with the temp gague moving from where it is supposed go. My car has almost 18K km just over 11K miles and driven in many a day over 40°c (104°F) and even a couple of days around 47°c (116ish°F). I also haven't read of any local Euro Spec Australian FiST's overheating. My commute is roughly 45 mins each way mostly cruising but some of it is under quite a bit of load up hill.
 

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Is this a U.S isolated thing having these overheat? I run the A/C all the time here is Australia and never had any issues with the temp gague moving from where it is supposed go. My car has almost 18K km just over 11K miles and driven in many a day over 40°c (104°F) and even a couple of days around 47°c (116ish°F). I also haven't read of any local Euro Spec Australian FiST's overheating. My commute is roughly 45 mins each way mostly cruising but some of it is under quite a bit of load up hill.
Definitely not USA issue only. My issues listed above continued until they replaced the head assembly under warranty. Lasted another 6 months with constantly requiring coolant too ups, and I kept complaining to Ford.

Eventually it shut down completely while I was on the M5 (thankfully just before the tunnel), smoked out. Pressure in the coolant system built up and blew a hose off causing all coolant out. Towed back to Ford.

Many arguments with Ford. Eventually got an entire engine replacement. Has been going very well since with no coolant too ups required at all. Even through our recent heat waves...
 

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Well that's shit but thanks giving the heads up. I have had no issues so far but will keep an eye on coolant levels. I wonder if it's gasket related like in the FoRS? Maybe their manufacturer need to change?
 

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There is a recall for this. It's basically a band aid, but there is one. They install a coolant sensor in the head to detect overheating earlier. Mine is affected, but i've not been in to get it fixed since after the first time i noticed the coolant was low, i topped it off and haven't had to add more than a trivial amount since. I keep an eye on it and check it periodically and have been fine.

The tech at the dealership said they've had a few in with this issue. Its all 1.6 EB motors, including the Escape, so not a small pool or candidates. The pressure tests on every one he's seen were fine and no HG replacements had been necessary for any of the ones he'd seen.
 

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I bought a second hand fiesta with 72 000km (45k miles) on it 2013 model. Car looked stunning! Leather seats and even a downpipe. Got the car exactly on lockdown day (covid), so when driving it home straight from the dealer I got a engine malfunction pop on the screen, along with temperature overheating and the spanner warning lights. Switched the car off for a few minutes, turned it back on and the warnings were all gone! Drove it for 20min and it started overheating, information the dealer of what’s happening, he couldn’t help as they were closed(lockdown)! I open up the bonnet and open up the coolant container for the coolant to come rushing out due to heat and spilled all over, I got burnt badly! Top up the coolant and continue driving, 5 min later the car overheats again, looses power and refuses to go past 10mph. I contact ford to ask them if a recall was done for this car, they inform me that this car has big problems! They say it has no compression and the engine has a knocking noise (which I suspected but I thought it’s the exhaust system it’s loose). Ford wanted to take the whole engine apart and do a rebuild, but the car was out of warranty so I’d have to pay. I decided to wait for the dealer to open after covid 19 restrictions were lowered.

I am very angry and frustrated at this time that I’ve been sold donkey instead of a race horse, I can only travel to the shops to buy essential things (lockdown) and back at very low speeds to prevent the car from overheating
Dealer came and took the car yesterday, they say the thermostat valve was blocked so they’ll fix it and replace the water pump! Informed him of what ford said to me, and they said they’ll fix that as well.
Hopefully this works as I love this car, even though I have had a few spirited drives in it. If the car gives me another issue I am returning it and canceling the deal!
Here in South Africa a car gives you mechanical problems and they can’t be sorted, you have 6 months to return the car for a full refund
 
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