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Playing with my cobb AP and I switched one of my views to knock sensor 1. My value is around 86-88 and low of 81 and high of 90. I have no idea what a good range is? My friends sti has a knock sensor and supposedly if it goes over 3 it's bad. I'm utterly confused here and I can't find any helpful sample data in google for our cars.

Any tips from a pro?
 

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KOEO(key on engine off) 167, hot idle 85(on knock 1), 30mph 104(knock 1), 55mph 137(knock 1). there are 2 knock sensors according to the reference chart.{ edit: pid reference is not in ratio(for this car), just a number (in the units mesured category it reads N/A.}
 

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His "knock sensor" is a knock ratio. If you see a kr of more than 3 hes right, its bad. The AP on this car doesnt have a KR pid to watch as far as I know.
Ian at COBB told me to monitor cylinder 1 timing correction. If it stays at 0 or goes +, then your good.
Mine goes - negative, quite a bit on the 93 map...
 

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The dealer I took my car to on Monday told me the FiST does not have knock sensors. I figured he was mis-informed, but had no proof. Has anyone gotten a warning light or a trouble code?
 

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Mine goes - negative, quite a bit on the 93 map...
Can you email me some logs? I run the 93 map all the time and never see negative corrections. What brand gas do you use?

Ian
 

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Topped off the tank on 93 oct 3 hours of mixed casual/spirited driving and my correction cyl1 never went neg but did go pos to 4. But I have no clue what that means.

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Topped off the tank on 93 oct 3 hours of mixed casual/spirited driving and my correction cyl1 never went neg but did go pos to 4. But I have no clue what that means.

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Adding timing is good, it means your fuel and tune are solid.
Pulling timing is bad, it's basically reducing power to keep your engine safe

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Notices today my corr cyl1 hit -2.02 today. When I noticed I reset the ap and it didn't do it again.

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Depends on the area. California only has 91, yet I have found a couple places out there with 100 on tap. Also, E85 is becoming more popular, pop some of that in with a tune and your good to go haha
Bit more than just a tune. Don't know how much more fuel the direct injectors can spray but e85 tuning demands allot more fuel to be injected. Also changing evo to e85 requires whole new fuel system as e85 causes the standard equipment to deteriorate very quickly.
 

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Bit more than just a tune. Don't know how much more fuel the direct injectors can spray but e85 tuning demands allot more fuel to be injected. Also changing evo to e85 requires whole new fuel system as e85 causes the standard equipment to deteriorate very quickly.
Well, coming from the mazdaspeed world, all you needed was a tune and fuel pump internals (stockers were garbage) and you were good to go.
I made 437whp 476wtq on 91 w/3 gallons of e85 gt3076r and bolt ons.

DI is a helluva drug...

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Adrian,

We have lots of fuels to play with in the U.S. That's part of the problem! Here, our posted pump octane rating is the average of ROM & MON. For the same fuel, the U.S. octane rating is 4-5 less than it is in countries that use AKI (Very similar to RON). Additionally, in most areas our fuel is 10% ethanol. Of note, some of our refiners make specialized high octane gasoline both for off-road/racing and some legal for street use (Sunoco offers over 20 specialized fuels). This is rarely available at the pump but can be legally obtained at prices about double our usual $4.00 a gallon.

We are possibly within a couple of years of having leadless aviation gasoline available from Swift Fuels and possibly Shell. Then this entire question will become mute.
 

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So just a question. I played with my ign corr cyl 1 and at wide open throttle to about 4500 it goes 1.75 then after that's drops to negatives. Know why?


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