Levels Performance Fiesta ST Build Thread!
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Here's a peek at some of the progress we've made. The stock manifold, turbo and downpipe are removed. We are currently designing and machining our flanges and components so we can begin our tubular manifold and downpipe along with a bigger turbo (eventually). We will keep everyone posted as we make progress.
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Excellent!
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Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Can't tell from the pics shown, but back when I had my Subaru STi, the trick downpipe (on the better made one's, like from Cobb) would have a "bellmouth" design. The exhaust manifold was not a circle, it was sort of oblong. Forgot what the extra portion was for, but the it would effect performance. Some companies would just weld a pipe to a flat flange to bolt to the exhaust manifold, and part of that flange would be solid, and block off that area. Cobb cast a whole bellmouth housing to bolt on, and allow the full flow. One company went so far as to make a dual outlet flange, welding a secondary pipe for that extra opening, and then join that pipe into the main further down.
Not sure if that would apply here now, or not? But if so, then o strongly suggest you look into a bellmouth design as well.
Not sure if that would apply here now, or not? But if so, then o strongly suggest you look into a bellmouth design as well.
The bellmouth design wouldn't apply to this platform simply because the turbo has a circular discharge side. We are in the process of machining our own flanges to get the ball rolling on a downpipe. I have attached a photo at a different angle to help visualize what the factory downpipe looks like.
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Nice going!
Since you're already fabricating the rear seat delete panel, why don't you also make rear chassis bracing like the one in the Mini GP?
![mini gp rear.jpg]()
Also, a lightweight battery kit will also be a nice addition that removes a good chunk of weight from the front which is more beneficial. If you decide to make one, please use the deka battery for cost savings. Deka is same thing as Braille; Deka actually manufactures the batteries for Braille which simply puts its brands logo on the products. Deka ETX20L Power Sports AGM Battery
Sorry for making too many requests. Just giving you some ideas on your next product development..
Good luck with your build!
Since you're already fabricating the rear seat delete panel, why don't you also make rear chassis bracing like the one in the Mini GP?
Also, a lightweight battery kit will also be a nice addition that removes a good chunk of weight from the front which is more beneficial. If you decide to make one, please use the deka battery for cost savings. Deka is same thing as Braille; Deka actually manufactures the batteries for Braille which simply puts its brands logo on the products. Deka ETX20L Power Sports AGM Battery
Sorry for making too many requests. Just giving you some ideas on your next product development..
Good luck with your build!
We want all the feedback you guys can give! We will be working on several bracing parts and performance parts in general.
How much hp increase are you expecting with the new downpipe. I mean, the stock turbo already pushes 21psi (correct me if I'm wrong) Is there any juice left in the turbo to push more? Even so, 250hp? is that even an achievable target taking into accout reliability and daily drivability ?
The rear seat delete is a cool idea. However, I think the rear strut brace isn't worth the time. It looks cool in the Mini but I'd suggest it does pretty much nothing to the car. Modern cars are very stiff as it is. A few track friends of mine setup their Go-Pro's in the trunk of their car and ran a taught piece of string between the strut towers and then drove around the track. The string didn't sag a bit which would suggest a strut bar does nothing. Just my 2 cents.
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I always laugh when people say they can feel the difference strut braces made on their daily commutes and that they're some of the best mods they've done.
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There's more to it than just peak boost. When you free up the exhaust side of a turbocharged engine, it tends to spool the turbo up much quicker (less lag) which improves response and mid range power. 250hp at the flywheel is nothing... if it can be done easily on a 2.0L engine platform, it certainly can be done on a 1.6L (albeit not as easily).
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Exactly. Freeing up exhaust flow will allow more efficient boost. You can make better power at lower boost levels.
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That's but ONE reason I'd like to go with a 3" cat-back, even if I leave the stock cats in place.
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I have a feeling that not too many companies are going to make a 3". Magnaflow has a 2.25" and Miltek is a 2.5". Cobb's turboback for the Focus ST is 3" so maybe from them? 3" on a 1.6L engine will look like a stovepipe! haha
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