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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figure I should start a thread now before I get too far along and have to backtrack. As it is I've already had the car for 6 weeks, got it Jan 18, 2014. I fully intended on just getting a white base ST, even had the dealer pull it from another local dealer. But at the last minute, literally while signing papers I was stalling, something just didn't feel right. Went back outside to look at it and while doing so, my brother who manages our business said why don't you just get the loaded one. So with a change of paper work I signed for this white loaded ST even though I knew the nav and sunroof wasn't necessary and I actually didn't even care for the red calipers and dark wheels, but the seats made up for a lot of it and now I enjoy having all the options. In the end it's just a little higher payment ;)

Here's when I first got it, tint soon followed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Then I added a Cobb AP V3

Once I hit 500 miles I did an oil change and installed a Cobb AP V3, I used the Stage 0 map which is the stock map so I could observe it and put more miles before getting a baseline run on the dyno. At which point I planned on then going to Stage 1 for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lic motorsports? You planning on supporting the FiST with aftermarket parts?

Congrats on the car btw!
Thanks, yes that's the plan anyway. Even though I know there won't be a lot of these cars out there I just felt I had to have one. It really reminds me of the early Subaru days with my RS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Finally hit the dyno

Last week I came up on 1,500 miles, did another oil change and hit up the dyno at another buddy's Subaru shop (Mann Engineering). He has quite the setup with a fully enclosed dyno room that uses a Maha Dyno which is much more common overseas. We will be working together on this project as we have in the past on several Subaru projects.

The numbers (crank) on CA91, my OAR started at -1.00 for the first run, 2nd -0.97, 3rd -0.90. Stg 1 started at -1.00 and stayed constant.

Stock Max: 193 HP / 207 TQ
Stg 1 max: 197 HP / 222 TQ
 

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Nice to see many of the companies I'm familiar with through work are jumping on the FiST!

I'll have to get a pic out in front of the shop once the weather clears up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today a box of springs showed up

So on Friday my brother said look there's springs available for your car, you'll have them on Tuesday. These are Eibach Pro-Kit springs, they're supposed to drop it 0.8"F & 0.7"R turns out on my car to be 1.1"F & 0.8"R which I'm happy with. Every car looks better lowered :)
 

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So on Friday my brother said look there's springs available for your car, you'll have them on Tuesday. These are Eibach Pro-Kit springs, they're supposed to drop it 0.8"F & 0.7"R turns out on my car to be 1.1"F & 0.8"R which I'm happy with. Every car looks better lowered :)
My cars twin! Was looking at those springs, how's it ride after and any alignment issues?
 

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Subscribed! Car looking real good!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Good to see more companies interested in the car. Let us know what you think about the ride and handling with these new springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've only driven about 30 miles on them to home and back to work this morning. I can't say they're really any better, but can't say they're really any worse either. The spring rate is the same except the Eibachs are progressive. The highway where I live in northern CA is under construction so it's not very smooth. For reference, I take my 4.5 yr old daughter to preschool every morning, often she plays with her Leap Pad on the way. One of the games you're supposed to shake it when you've completed the level, The car bounces enough that it shakes it for her before she's done so she gets a little frustrated ;) so in comparison it did it also with the stock springs. The valve damping is pretty firm on these, much like how STi's are.

As for alignment since it did lower it 1 1/8" F and 7/8" R I had to adjust toe a little bit. I have toe plates we use for racing, I checked it before with the stock setup, it was an 1/16" Toe-in. After the spring install it was 3/16"Toe-out. I adjusted it to 0" since that's what we do on Subaru's. It was easy enough to reach behind the wheel and turn the inner tie rod 2 flats and that was that. The stock lower strut bolts aren't eccentric so there was no camber adjustment.

BTW: the upper strut bearings are plastic, very lightweight but don't see how they could last a very long time. Maybe I'm just used to the seemingly more robustness of a Subaru ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pics of plastic upper strut bearing

Here's the upper strut bearing, I was surprised it's all plastic. Maybe it will be fine, going coilovers with a camber plate will eliminate this part.
 

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