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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got this amp in today, Arc audio XDI V2, 150x4 and 600x1 the way I will set it up, 7.5 lbs

XDi 1200.6 | Arc Audio

I will mount the amp with the 10" sub and digital processor in a quick release spare tire well setup to take it out for track events but the total weight will be only around 22lbs when installed.

This is the first time I will ever run a D class amp, I have tried them over the years and never been satified but this is a just now released state of the art amp so I am going to give it a shot and am sure I will like it:)

The system will be stock NAV HU with an Audison Bit 10 processor that will automatically removed the factory EQing and restore the signal to how it should be but also is a 3 way crossover/EQ which will be able to have audiophile output to the amp.

Audison bit - bit Ten D

I would normally run the Arc Audio PS8 but it is a very very high end 8 channel processor and quite a bit to hook up and tune, it is just more than I need for this system.

Sub will be the Arc Audio 10 as I have used many, great sound and output for a reasonalbe amount of space required.

Subwoofers, ARC Series, ARC 10 | Arc Audio

I am using a set of older really low weight Arc mids, ACS 265 and Arc Black Line tweeters.

Tweeters, firing at each other mounted in the A pillars, 2" or so above the highest point in the dash.
Black 1.0 | Arc Audio

I would like to run these, they have huge output for a 5.25", more than enough for my needs and with a very well tuned sub crossover I do not need a 6.5" mid.

but I have the ACS 265 which are a 6.5 but not as robust though very low in weight and great sound quality.

Black 5.0 | Arc Audio

I do have a pair of the 4" Black Line mids and know of them being used in a 4 way front stage that worked very well, I might give them a try as barely heavier than the ACS 265.


Mount and enclosure will be out of fiberglass, Baltic birch plywood and Alumalite honeycomb so very solid and very low weight.

I will have the 8lb battery there as well, I have room for larger batteries if I end up needing one and have two sizes of Odyssey batteries here to chose from.

There will be a 2 qt window washer tank and pump as well, the tank and battery will be separate from the audio gear as it will stay in place for the track. (I might make the washer bottle mount to the audio rack as well, will see how it turns out.

Sound deadening will be done using some mat product, lots of acoustical/thermal foam and some aluminum channels to stiffen panels and allow less mat required, tie wraps, silicone sealer. It will be nicely deadened for very little added weight.

NO rear speakers needed or wanted, in the very high end audio competition world you seldom ever see rear speakers, the music is supposed to come from the front.

I have taken over 200 lbs out of the car and adding back around 50 to the rear where most of the weight came out from so it will help the balance a bit to add some back, it might work out I want or need to leave the system in the car at the track, I have raced with a system before.

The total added weight of the audio install with deadening will be around 30lbs.

If you take the time to do all the critical steps to reduce the weight of a vehicle, add just the right amount back, you can have a world class audio system for very little added weight.

You will not find systems like this installed in but a rare handful of shops as few in the business have ever even heard a championship caliber system let alone installed one, sad but true:(.

This will be the 44th year since I installed my first car audio system, dozens since and I am still learning. I have been a competitor, judge, published but more important blessed to get to know and learn from some of the all time best installers, manufacturers, competitors.....

The most fun from this? Showing my fellow ST owners just what we can do for a very reasonable amount of weight, effort and cost, especially when I get to see you grinning like mad once you hear it:)

Have an excellent weekend!
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have the Black line 6.5 and tweeters along with a Black Line 12" sub under the dash in the console(lots of work to do that!) in my dually and installing the same line of amps but using the 600.4 and 1100.1 in the console.

I totally stripped the truck, deadened the entire dash, ducting, firewall, back wall, roof, doors, floor, pillars, 100 hours of labor, lots of product, it drives like a limo now, really, can barely ever hear the diesel engine unless pulling 20k+ up a hill.
 

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Definitely interested in seeing some installed pics when available, would love to hear it but doubt that can happen unless you are close by of course. While our factory stereo is Ok it still doesn't measure up to my Mustangs stereo, which isn't saying much. What would a comparable system like this cost the regular guy to put in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The biggest issue is cleaning up the stock HU sound as their processor is tuned for their goofy speaker layout, low quality speakers, etc.....the best bet for that is to use the processor I listed, the Bit 10 as 5 channels is all we really need, mids, tweets and sub, that is more than enough.

Processor, best I have found is $375 or so, might be able to get one for a bit less but you get to keep the stock HU so really not a bad investment.

Amp, the one I am using lists for $779 but the 1100.5 at $679 which is not out yet will do just fine but even the 850.5 is enough to do a great job, not out yet but all of the line will be in a few weeks or so. I might switch to the 1100.5 or even the 850.5 at list price of $519. You have to work out a deal with your local dealer, I will no longer be a dealer once I go full time RVing, planning to head out this fall.

Speakers, new black line without crossovers as we will use the ones in the Bit 10, list for $728 with tweeters, but the regular Arc series is quite nice at $399, there are many great speakers available, DIY, etc for less as well. I am using an old set of ACS mids that would not sell for much, were reasonable when new, due to great sound and very low weight. For more output, if not to deep for the doors, finding a deal on a set of ID X65 mids would be killer as big output, neo mags so low weight....I just found a set on Amazon, new, $219, great deal on them!

I have a set of Seas aluminum mids I really like a great deal, $102 each but pretty heavy. I could use the Arc Black lines, might be a little lighter but cost quite a bit more at retail.

There are many great mids but not many great ones that are not pretty heavy.

t would use a different tweeter with the ID, a nice tweeter but I like some others I have used a bit better, LPG 26NA aluminum domes are nice at $46 each but I think I like the Seas for $43 even better, a very smooth and articulate tweeter. For those with more sensitive ears the soft dome is great as well.

The Madisound Speaker Store

Subwoofer, many great ones out there but I have been quite happy with the Arc 10, not to heavy, great output, great sound, retail is $219, I have used a few hundred of them over the years. I have the Black Line 12" in my trailer and my truck but the 10" us a bit to heavy for the car as I am under a strict weight loss plan and only allowing so much weight to go back in.

Higher powered amps are just better sounding and the one I am using for now is just 7.5 lbs for 150x4 and 600x1(when bridged on the last two channels).

Sound deadening can be done for around $150 if you know where to go and what to use.

With the processor you only need some really short RCA cables, I usually make up my own from Conare dual twisted pair mic cable, incredible cables, cheap to make.

A power wire to the rear, welding cable is my favorite but more recently you can find some good cable on Ebay, etc, for less.

Speaker wire, no need to spend a bundle.

One power block is not to costly, get a little one, some ends for the power and ground cables, I use crimp on copper usually,

One can build a very nice system for something like this, Bit 10 listed for the best price I have found so far, amp, process, speakers listed at dealer price but you can always negotiate, etc......
Audison Bit 10, 375.00
Arc 850.1 amp 519.00
Arc 10 sub 219.00
ID X65 mids 219.00
Seas tweeters 86.00
Wiring, etc, 150.00
Deadening 150.00
Misc, 50.00

Total $1768.00 For a superb audiophile system, and this is on the high side of things

I promise there are few if anyone on here that has heard what a properly tuned system like this can sound like, amazing.

For those willing to accept a bit more weight and or budget, the larger amp, even a 12" sub, etc....

For those wanting to keep the spare tire, flip it, mount the jack elsewhere, use this sub, Alpine SWR-T10, have to shop around for a good price as quite expensive but it is one of the few shallow mount subs worth using. I am do not test all the subs like I used to, just use what I like but sometimes have to look into things to help others out that have other requirements than I have so there may be other good shallow subs but more do not have much output or play very low and some brands I just do not like the sound of most if not all over their subs.
 

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Gotcha, I figured the processor was essential to good sound much like my roommate using a Sunfire receiver receiver for his home theater, the sound "quality" is astonishing as well as the sheer volume. I'm looking for clarity more than anything, the volume will come with it and the stock Fiesta system is quite lacking in this area. Space being limited it's a concern with the sub and I've already been contemplating where to have that mounted, obviously I need it well secured or easily removed for any track times. I'll keep this in mind as I start looking into this for mine. Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can lose a lot of weight ditching the spare tire and carrying a fix it kit, I use a plug kit, small compressor and a can of goo in case it needs a bit more. If you get a spike through a sidewall you might be able to get it to hold enough air to get to safety, a tire, etc....but in all my years and at least a million or two miles, I have only had one flat I could not get to hold air.

BUT, a shallow sub, I have just spent over an hour looking into more options, will be a fairly easy want to keep your spare and have the sub as well and not that hard to take out for the track along with the spare tire and jack. The 850.1 amp is probably 5-6 lbs, the processor is under 2 lbs, mount them in the cargo area to the right side of the car and just leave them in to make it easier, etc...

I am actually going to take a look at my car again and consider carrying the spare but get a compact one if I do since we plan to take the car on site seeing excursions and some will end up on dirt roads, off the grid stuff.....though if it will fit between the bushes and trees I can take the dually instead if to rugged for the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is a lot of room under the seats, it might be possible to put not only amp and processor but perhaps a sub under one of them though the weight it better in the rear for the balance of the car.
 

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I like the rear mounted sub idea, like you said with flipping the spare and moving the jack it would be super easy to mount a sub in there and not affect storage space. I don't need quite the level you are running but want something of good quality for sound. With just purchasing my car this week I'm not going to be able to move on anything yet but this is my first thing planned for the car, once I'm ready I'll hit you up for some advice, especially on install as it's not my forte.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I do not know what the stock speakers are like so there might be a decent upgrade path just doing that and I will always advise just spend the money to get the best you can for the front and forget the rears but it might be different due to the goofy factory tuning nearly all systems have.

Adding a processor and amp is expensive but if you really want great sound it simply has to be done.

Some just want it a bit better and some are OK with stock, cool, I wish I was in that camp as it would save me a ton of time and money, a huge amount over all this years.

A simple sub and amp and better front speakers can be done for a reasonable price.

BUT, most subs are not that musical, just make bass like noise, really good subs do not even sound as loud at the same DB level due to less distortion and once you get used it it few would ever go back to what most think bass is supposed to sound like.
 

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I'm in the camp that just wants a "bit better"..... Also I'm a cheap ass haha.
Would love to slap a decent well priced sub in though. Def on my to do list.



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would need to see the more important numbers like xmax, RMS values and many more parameters to begin to see if these are viable subs for our cars.

For now with so little of the most important specs they might be more massagers than subwoofers;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would need to see the more important numbers like xmax, THD, RMS, etc, values and many more parameters to begin to see if these are viable subs for our cars.

For now with so little of the most important specs they might be more massagers than subwoofers;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry for the double post, I added a bit and then...........
 

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Rick, what would you recommend for a budget amp/sub? I'm not an audiophile, just want a little more thump without breaking the bank.



 

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I do not know what the stock speakers are like so there might be a decent upgrade path just doing that and I will always advise just spend the money to get the best you can for the front and forget the rears but it might be different due to the goofy factory tuning nearly all systems have.

Adding a processor and amp is expensive but if you really want great sound it simply has to be done.

Some just want it a bit better and some are OK with stock, cool, I wish I was in that camp as it would save me a ton of time and money, a huge amount over all this years.

A simple sub and amp and better front speakers can be done for a reasonable price.

BUT, most subs are not that musical, just make bass like noise, really good subs do not even sound as loud at the same DB level due to less distortion and once you get used it it few would ever go back to what most think bass is supposed to sound like.
My roommate is a home theater-phile and experiencing his system I have heard and felt what good bass is like. I showed him the equipment you listed and he said its great stuff and he wants to do that in his car now lol. Personally I would go with your route with the amp/processor and not worry about the rear doors, though looking around there are some less expensive amps/processors that will do nearly the as same you have(and yours is top notch).

I'm thinking I should have around $1500 to work with once I get the initial things I need done first like clear bra, tint, car cover and a few minor things. Thanks for the info thus far, been looking at it online here and it makes me anxious to get this together!!
 

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This active sub would surely fit under 1 of the front seats:
8" 600W
Fusion CP-AS1080 8? 600 Watt Super Slim Active Subwoofer | eBay
Stick 1 under both front seats, 1200W of bass and 2 massage chairs!!

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
I've been looking at these types of subs recently. I don't know the usable dimensions under the seat. I was going to mock up a cardboard box to see what size units fit.

Does anyone else know for sure what dimensions would fit under a passenger seat? I'd hate to buy one of these only to find out it doesn't fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have to advise to use caution in buying any kind of sub like that and nearly all are not very good at being a subwoofer, more a noise maker, great bass is so far better that once you hear it you would never want a bunch of noise again.

8", 600 watts, already that tells me they most likely posting peak power which is meaningless, you really need to know the RMS power and distortion.

Shallow subs, most all have about have the output and low extension of a comparable regular sub so 2 shallow 8's would be more like one regular 8.

Having a regular 8 or 10 in the hatch, firing up, will make it feel much larger as it will couple to the car and increase the level a great deal.

Example, a bit on the wild side, Scion TC, single Arc 15 sub, SQL sub so gets pretty loud while still sounding like actual musical bass, quite good really. Sealed box, 2.2cubic ft(very carefully designed and only weighed 20lbs empty which is super light for so much air space) Arc 1000 watt RMS amp, 138.4 db on music for 2 minutes without distortion, that is nuts on music as SPL builds usually cannot play real music as tuned to a single frequency.....

A single 10 with 500 watts, etc....lots of bass in this car, single 12 even more.....there is a lot to figuring this out correctly in some aspects, easy in others.....

Please find some quality reviews on any self powered sub, any sub or amp really.....:)
 

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