Loud clicking in dash after startup
41 - 53 of 53 Posts
Joined
·
129 Posts
Joker, I can only see half of your picture.... Where are you guys ordering the replacement part from? Now, my '14 FiST is doing it and I'm at 58,xxx miles... ZERO problems otherwise!Part pckg![]()
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Joined
·
129 Posts
Weird, when I quoted your picture Joker, now I can see the entire package and part number. Still curious as to where you guys are ordering the part from...
Mine just started doing this about a couple days ago. I thought maybe it was the cd player loading initially though and took my cd out. Somehow, oddly enough, it did help a little because I don't hear it after starting anymore and it's somewhat random but it still occurs which is what brought me here looking for a solution...
My milage is at 54k+ though. A bit more than others here and I have an extended warranty so hopefully this should help...I'll need to take mine in soon.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
My milage is at 54k+ though. A bit more than others here and I have an extended warranty so hopefully this should help...I'll need to take mine in soon.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Joined
·
1 Posts
This just started happening to me last night. A few weeks ago my heat would not come on when expected, then all of the sudden would start to blow warm air. Last night I turn my car on 2 times and as soon as I did, the noise happened exactly like how everyone has explained. I have a 2014 SFX 1.0 Turbo with 80Km and I'm so ticked! I only drive it in the summer and have used it this year because of the warm weather. Thanks for all the posts... hopefully I can get this done rather inexpensively.
Many thanks to Mbuccy for such a useful posting. No BS, no profanity, just good stuff.
Quite a bit of work on this subject has happened in the 2+ years since that post. Youtube now has several videos on how to get easier access to the actuator (pull out the steering column's plastic shrouding), but I've now twice replaced one of the two actuators in my 2014 Titanium hatch, and had to pirate parts out of one old one to fix the second one. This isn't a simple job the first time, so a few things that might prove helpful:
Access: I pulled out both the airbag and the column shrouding. It was worth the work. It's almost impossible to do this job with out dropping a screw or a tool and that's also the only way to get enough light in to see what you're doing. Getting the right hand nut off the airbag mounting bolt is a really horrible job, so while I had the assembly out, I shortened the right hand bolt by about 1/4 inch and replaced the nylock nut with a common machine nut and lock washer, plus Loctite. Much easier going back together.
The PC board: Assume the replacement doesn't have one. The replacements, even from Ford, don't have one. That's because these actuators are used on both the left and right side of the console (the second one is behind the glove box - piece of cake to replace) and the right hand one doesn't need the brain. Look at the pins in the electrical socket on the one you pull out - if there are only two connector pins, there's no PC board inside. Put the old one in.
Mounting: Ford uses this same actuator all across the vehicle lineup, and mounts vary. That's why there's a small mod needed to make them mount properly in the Fiesta, and I haven't seen anyone mention that yet. On the side of the plastic air channel you're mounting the actuator to, by the hole for the bottom mounting screw, is a flat plastic tab. The case of the actuator won't seat on that tab unless you file or cut out the correct molded section of the cross-shaped locator hole in the side of the actuator. That's a pretty convoluted explanation; here's pics of the modified and unmodified locating hole. If you don't do this, and just force the actuator down tight with the two mounting screws, you'll break the screw sockets on the case of the actuator. Ask me how I know. I'm a klutz, OK?
Before modification, as shipped:
![]()
After carefully clearing out the hole:
![]()
It really tics me off that Ford hasn't improved the durability of these actuators in half a decade or longer. They're still flimsy and I fully expect to have to do this again if I own the car for another couple of years. At least RockAuto will consider replacing one that goes bad within a year or so. That helped me, and gave me what I need for a reasonable price.
Quite a bit of work on this subject has happened in the 2+ years since that post. Youtube now has several videos on how to get easier access to the actuator (pull out the steering column's plastic shrouding), but I've now twice replaced one of the two actuators in my 2014 Titanium hatch, and had to pirate parts out of one old one to fix the second one. This isn't a simple job the first time, so a few things that might prove helpful:
Access: I pulled out both the airbag and the column shrouding. It was worth the work. It's almost impossible to do this job with out dropping a screw or a tool and that's also the only way to get enough light in to see what you're doing. Getting the right hand nut off the airbag mounting bolt is a really horrible job, so while I had the assembly out, I shortened the right hand bolt by about 1/4 inch and replaced the nylock nut with a common machine nut and lock washer, plus Loctite. Much easier going back together.
The PC board: Assume the replacement doesn't have one. The replacements, even from Ford, don't have one. That's because these actuators are used on both the left and right side of the console (the second one is behind the glove box - piece of cake to replace) and the right hand one doesn't need the brain. Look at the pins in the electrical socket on the one you pull out - if there are only two connector pins, there's no PC board inside. Put the old one in.
Mounting: Ford uses this same actuator all across the vehicle lineup, and mounts vary. That's why there's a small mod needed to make them mount properly in the Fiesta, and I haven't seen anyone mention that yet. On the side of the plastic air channel you're mounting the actuator to, by the hole for the bottom mounting screw, is a flat plastic tab. The case of the actuator won't seat on that tab unless you file or cut out the correct molded section of the cross-shaped locator hole in the side of the actuator. That's a pretty convoluted explanation; here's pics of the modified and unmodified locating hole. If you don't do this, and just force the actuator down tight with the two mounting screws, you'll break the screw sockets on the case of the actuator. Ask me how I know. I'm a klutz, OK?
Before modification, as shipped:
After carefully clearing out the hole:
It really tics me off that Ford hasn't improved the durability of these actuators in half a decade or longer. They're still flimsy and I fully expect to have to do this again if I own the car for another couple of years. At least RockAuto will consider replacing one that goes bad within a year or so. That helped me, and gave me what I need for a reasonable price.
Attachments
Mine was replaced under warranty at about 15000 miles. At 49k now with no issues so far.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
1 Posts
My 2015 fiesta is making loud clicks too when I put the center heat on for about 1 minute then stops . Was told by dealership it will cost $135 to investigate then possibly $1000 to fix. My first and last Ford. A couple months ago the hood sensor failed. Cost about $350 to find the problem and fix it. Not happy. Losing my love for this cute car.
Joined
·
1 Posts
** Ford fiesta own 2 - 2014 fiesta st and standard fiesta - Manufacter mechanical part you speak of is called " Blender Accuator " mines been replaced 2 times in my 2014 fiesta st model 2nd fiesta 2014 model same thing .. 3 times on st model 2 times on standard 2014 fiesta .. ( ** LOOK AT YOUR FORD WARANTEE IN - DEPTH - Ford should diagnose and replace the part at there cost , my cars in repair cost me 50 $ deductable .. * Another fact trunks collect standing water ( Vents were not propwrly sealed at Ford Factories on that issue , as well floorboard have standiing water -- water on your carpet soaks Electrical wiring routed thru your fiesta under your carpeting - Is your car Under warantee for Electrical shortages due to water damaging unexposed visual wiring operating your electrical systems ? .. oh the Joys of owning the Fiestas .. * and be aware Dealerships eill say We have a Company who can Diangnose that water leak for you ( trying to make you pay the fee .. Amazing what you can learn on You tube videos .. just Factory manufactured issues Ford will offer to help you diagnose at your cost to pass on business to a water diagnois company who happens to come for them special appointments conviently to there dealership lots . And the beauty of it all .. When they try to Sell you a New Car - lol - be very aware of that pressure gimmick as well when a Ford dealership says " Well lets loom into your options .. Been there done it .. You tube can teach you alot .. * And what if your dealership you boought 2 ford fiestas at go out of business .. The dealership you deal with next says well we didnt sell you those cars .. Though any ford travels with a warantee thru the corporation .. quite a thing some should also be aware of in you also have water leaking and a dealership acts " Oblivious why " . Best of luck
Joined
·
49 Posts
Just doing a bit of research before doing this job on my own. I've notice many of you are installing the wrong part. The part that is clicking behind the steering wheel column is the "air door" or "mode door" actuator even though it's commonly referred to as the "blend door."
The first time I had this done under warranty and the Ford p/n is BE8Z-19E616-B. Motorcraft p/n YH1896. No, the B does not mean its the 2nd revision. If you are going under the steering wheel to replace the clicking motor, this is the right part.
YH1935 (AV1Z-19E616-K) is the part that goes into the heater assembly somewhere behind the center console. The YH1935 motor is the true "blend door" actuator as it turns the doors that "blend" the cool air with the hot air to get the right temp.
This time I'm going with a Dorman part (604-400) as it comes with a lifetime warranty that hopefully will pay for itself in the next replacement. As much as I would love to call Steve at Tasca for the right part, I have no confidence in Ford and I'm willing to take a chance on the aftermarket part. Keep in mind, the Dorman part is not better in any way. Dorman has a specialty line called, OE FIX that improves on the mfg part, but this is NOT one of them.
The first time I had this done under warranty and the Ford p/n is BE8Z-19E616-B. Motorcraft p/n YH1896. No, the B does not mean its the 2nd revision. If you are going under the steering wheel to replace the clicking motor, this is the right part.
YH1935 (AV1Z-19E616-K) is the part that goes into the heater assembly somewhere behind the center console. The YH1935 motor is the true "blend door" actuator as it turns the doors that "blend" the cool air with the hot air to get the right temp.
This time I'm going with a Dorman part (604-400) as it comes with a lifetime warranty that hopefully will pay for itself in the next replacement. As much as I would love to call Steve at Tasca for the right part, I have no confidence in Ford and I'm willing to take a chance on the aftermarket part. Keep in mind, the Dorman part is not better in any way. Dorman has a specialty line called, OE FIX that improves on the mfg part, but this is NOT one of them.
Joined
·
49 Posts
Following up, I finished this job and it was a royal pain. The Dorman part is nearly identical in all the ways that matter. It has the correct pin count, though there is slight cosmetic difference on the face that mounts to the HVAC doors, but it still functions perfectly. Only time will tell if this is a quality fix. Be prepared to sacrifice some skin and flesh. Removing the knee airbag would have made it a ton easier, but none of my sockets could access the nuts. You'll need a really skinny/thumb sized 10mm deep socket wrench or some kind of long reaching box end/ratcheting tool, and nothing i had could fit and maneuver around the wiring and other obstacles in the way. Removing the brake pedal sensor nets you minimal gains because there are still metal tabs and bends blocking access, but it might be just enough for the right tool.
I suppose that I could've ran to the store to look for what I needed but I decided to test how far I could get through the steering column cowl instead. This method is maddening enough to make you go buy a Honda. I have small hands and skinny arms (what can I say, i'm a wimp) and I had to bend, fold, twist my body to reach in there and do this nearly blind. I had to do a combination of looking through the bottom, and snaking my hands through the front to work on the bottom screw. and then i switched positions, change hands and plant my face into the shift knob, and blindly go after the top screw. The nice thing is, if you get the correct part, no modification is needed of the keyed slot.
Final thoughts: I could not tighten the top screw in all the way. It got really stuck around half way point. Because I was screwing into plastic, I left it as-is, to not strip any threads in the plastic. Also once the new part is in, before you tighten all the screws and reinstall the cowls/air bag turn the car on and test all the HVAC modes. All that blood, sweat, and tears you don't want to button it up and realize you got it wrong after the fact. If this is your first time, you'll want to budget at around 2 hours going through the steering column. GOOD LUCK!
I suppose that I could've ran to the store to look for what I needed but I decided to test how far I could get through the steering column cowl instead. This method is maddening enough to make you go buy a Honda. I have small hands and skinny arms (what can I say, i'm a wimp) and I had to bend, fold, twist my body to reach in there and do this nearly blind. I had to do a combination of looking through the bottom, and snaking my hands through the front to work on the bottom screw. and then i switched positions, change hands and plant my face into the shift knob, and blindly go after the top screw. The nice thing is, if you get the correct part, no modification is needed of the keyed slot.
Final thoughts: I could not tighten the top screw in all the way. It got really stuck around half way point. Because I was screwing into plastic, I left it as-is, to not strip any threads in the plastic. Also once the new part is in, before you tighten all the screws and reinstall the cowls/air bag turn the car on and test all the HVAC modes. All that blood, sweat, and tears you don't want to button it up and realize you got it wrong after the fact. If this is your first time, you'll want to budget at around 2 hours going through the steering column. GOOD LUCK!
Joined
·
49 Posts
Well that didn't last long. Dorman part needs to be replaced, no dash noise, but the modes (floor, defrost, etc.) aren't changing.
41 - 53 of 53 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!