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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fun day today! These are not engine related but every once of weight we can delete or relocate to a better place for weight distribution effects many aspects of performance, power is just one part of the big equation.

Since I am relocating the battery to the rear it was obvious the bracket the battery mount was bolted to was a bit overkill but more importantly it was designed to let the engine move around a great deal. The rear engine mount has been addressed well by the aftermarket but this one moves far more than I would prefer. I made this mount today, it allows the engine to move just a little and not add any noise or vibration (I have not tested it yet but have built mounts for many cars)

It also saved another pound of weight and weight is always the enemy to all things performance.

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Since removing all the parts around this area it exposed many wires that were not fully loomed so I redid them all to protect them and look a bit better and relocated the ECU as close to the firewall and as low as it can go. I have to make the mount for it and tie wrap the cables, it will be a bit cleaner looking than it is now.

Notice the red in the background? That is the positive battery cable with many wires, fuses, etc....it is tucked way back in out of the way and a 4 gauge power cable bolted to it going to the hatch area where the battery will be.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The battery passes through the firewall where there was a little plastic plug, pretty handy to have it, I put the grommet on the wire to protect it.

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Power cable in the drivers kick panel, routed around so it will fit flush behind the trim panel easily.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now have a huge open area on the drivers side of the engine and as can be seen replace the factory vacuum line for the brake booster as it was a hard line and all over the place....

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I do not like how the red cover looks over the positive battery post connector so considering more options. It is secure and out of the way so no issues there, just not cosmetically clean.

I did not take a picture but the washer tanks is out as well, I am putting a smaller one in the rear spare tire well with the battery.

I took 125 lbs out of the back of an already front heavy car so moving all I can to the rear, making parts lighter, making new parts, etc....to help get the balance right.

BBK will help a huge amount, I will have to add some weight in a much bigger intercooler though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And this car is getting far less done than some I have built:)

I have the cowl out which probably makes this much easier and in the foreground of the picture you see a bracket with some ground wires on it, I bent it down a bit to make the job easier then bend it back up when done. I was considering removing it and putting the grounds somewhere else that would look better.

The plug is a small looking black plastic piece behind the shock tower, drivers side. While trying to get it out it pushed in instead but fell out of the way. Behind that is a layer of foam padding with a harder surface layer facing inside the cabin. I used a pick tool and pushed a hole in it, then a screwdriver to widen it a bit.

When I put in the pick I did so carefully as not knowing what was on the other side, then crawled under the dash to see what was going on, I had stopped before hitting the wires in the area.

Next I used coat hanger with a tip bend over to round it a bit, pushed it through then taped the 4 gauge to it really well, I use a good grade of 3M tape as it holds well, and use it all over the car when doing any electrical, worth the extra few bucks. I bent a hook on the end of the coat hanger wire as well, it helps when taping it on.

Push it in a bit with a slight bend down on it, go inside and it is a far reach but I have some really long needle nose pliers, start pulling.

I put the grommet on the opposite end, a couple of feet from the end and that makes for a nice stop to not pull to far. Once I got to that point I determined how much wire to leave under the hood, adjusted the grommet, pulled the rest through, pushed in the grommet, it was a bit tough to get to but I have done far harder pulls than this one, great to have a hole we can use!

Prior to pulling the wire I did an external measurement, eyeballing the approx length needed for the wire can came up with 12 ft, I had the silver wire already, it was 13 which I would wanted more as it always takes more than expected due to things like wrapping around the bits behind the kick panel, etc....I only have about 1ft inside the engine bay and just enough in the spare tire enclosure to put the battery most anywhere in it.

I might drill a hole and put the wire through the floor at some place and then into the side of the tire well as it makes for a cleaner install as putting in a flat floor in the back of the car, no rear seat, etc....

Hope this helps:)
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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The Fist is not going to get quite this crazy as the last track car built here but I am looking for a way to use some dimple die parts, those are fun to make:)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If all goes as planned, fall in the Boston area as have grandchildren there, see many places, drive on many tracks, start heading south as the weather gets cold, sites and tracks on the way, not sure if heading down into or very far into FL yet but we might, then meander back across the southern states and late spring up to Carson City NV....general plan, we will have more details as things progress. I would love to drive Sebring as it is one of the famous tracks on my list and we plan to do more than one big trip:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just to be clear, the Fist is not getting a cage, it is a street car for site seeing, grocery getting and has to haul my wife and I and two big dogs, it will be a well sorted and quite quick street car setup far more for handling that top speed or acceleration but will do well there and will be very fun on track, many tracks:)

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History interests me in running Sebring, not so much the track and I will have to be a bit moderate there as need this car to survive a long life of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Unlike some previous projects this car is not going to be an endless money pit like the $100k+ race Vette, $80K+ M3 track car I sold last year.....that is parts, no labor.....and other not quite so expensive cars. I am retired and on a much lower budget though was building the M3 after I was retired. Instead we are simplifying and just going to have fun in a well sorted out little car that has all the right mods and none of the nuts expensive ones that have minute performance enhancements....it will be plenty quick for sure of course:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The stock air damn under the bumper is pretty efficient, my Vettes had those as well and were very stable at high speed so they had to work. My race vette was a bit different, 50 hours of windtunnel testing went into the design of the splitter/undertray, I had a C5 race chassis with C6 World Challenge body($$$$$) it had two huge bend NACA style ducts to direct air out to the wheel wells so less went under the car. I was in the process of designing one for the M3 when I decided to stop the project.

On the M3 I cut out the trunk well and made it a flat floor which was the upper part of a two stage tunable giant diffuser, I had not finished the second level or strakes yet.

I have a 332ti project I am selling I was going to do an angle floor in and have it be a single stage but big diffuser as well.

ST, I need the spare tire well so have to keep it but I will probably clean up the bottom of the car once everything is done back there, maybe flat bottom and flush to the stock "diffuser" so it does not trap air as it does now.

Front, been looking at a splitter/undertray idea but not sure I can get in and out of the trailer with one, it is a tall trailer and I already have the longest "Race Ramps"

Also considering wing extension(s) and side skirts which would need flushed in underneath to actually be very effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just got an email notice of this post but it does not show up here on the site, odd.......


"Any tips on how you located or got the wire/cable through this hole from the engine compartment into the cabin? Did anything like under the dash plastics or insulation have to be removed to gain access to retrieve the wires?"

I did this back in the spring and do not recall just what it took but it was really easy compared to running cables in many installs I have done. I think I just pushed it through the hole and was able to just grab it and pull from the inside then route it under the kick panel and door sills.
 
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