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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all.

So I'm going to show off what I have so far since this is a new account, and show you guys what I've done with my car.

Firstly, my goal with modding my car has been all about the sound and looks, with a little extra power being welcome but unnecessary. The car is already plenty powerful enough stock, and I don't want to hammer out horses until something goes bang.

I have both made my own modifications using a couple different manufacturing methods, as well as purchasing other mods.

What I'll start off with is probably a lot of people's first mod, a sound symposer delete. The difference is that I machined my own out of aluminium on a lathe.
I've had access to a machine shop at uni as part of a Cert II Engineering course I've been doing, so I was able to do a couple of my own projects here and there.

The plug itself is fairly easy. All you really need to know is the outer diameter of the opening on the sound symposer. I was able to measure it with my calipers without even taking it out.



After that I took my car to an exhaust shop along with a resonated Mishimoto cat-back exhaust to get it fitted. Which was the first substantial change that my car had had. Personally, I like the way the exhaust sounds. It's pretty quiet when I'm cruising on the road, sounds great to me, and all up it wasn't very expensive. I also like the black tips. They have a unique look that I don't see too often on other cars.


I also had ordered a Turbosmart Kompact Shortie Plumb Back BOV, along with a gauge.

I decided that I wanted to keep a clean look to my interior, and to make sure I don't put anything that might "obstruct my vision" so as to not anger the local constabulary. So vent mount it was going to be.
I actually found a pretty good vent pod model on Thingiverse that I could 3D print, and with some red ABS filament and my 3D printer I got that printing. The first attempts were riddled with adhesion issues and the first print was actually undersized, maybe due to ABS's issues with dimensional accuracy, but with a blanket over the printer and scaling up the model in the slicer software, I was able to get a nice print that fit the gauge.




Getting the vent out, much as everyone who's done it says, is a real pain in the ass. And I actually found mine had been installed upside down or something. I didn't break anything removing the vent, but I had chewed up and bent back the tabs that lock the vent into the dash. I was able to bend them back to normal.

Something that seemed different on my car however that made routing the hose just as much of a pain was the rubber grommet that the hood latch cable goes through. That grommet is really tiny and near impossible to remove. Maybe the 1L Fiestas have it set up differently.
What I ended up doing was feeling around to the right of where the light controls are for a soft flap that leads into the bodywork. If you pull out the plastic plug near the door hinge, you can get the hose through there and run it under the hood hinge to engine bay. The hose supplied by Turbosmart is the cheapest, stiffest crap they could have included that just wants to stay in a curly, tangled mess. I made it work, but I would probably recommend choosing something of better quality.
I drilled a hole in the plastic plug and ran the hose through that. I'll have to check it for leaking, but honestly that plastic wouldn't have made an amazing seal before anyway.





I also soldered the gauge wires onto the wires for the interior lights via the plug that goes into the lighting control box. First try I had use the wrong wires, so the gauge was full bright all the time and didn't dim at night, but I found in the video Spark Plug Steve had done, he'd written a correction in the video description saying to wire red to pin 10 and black to pin 11, which got the dimming to work nicely.



Now with the BOV that I bought, I was hoping it would be adjustable like the dual port model, but it turns out that's not the case. I wanted to stiffen the spring in the valve to get a bit of flutter, but still have the valve open at higher pressure. Whether or not you agree with making a turbo flutter doesn't really matter to me. There's plenty of arguments for both sides of the debate, and I decided it's what I wanted to do. Plenty of factory cars used to not have any kind of bypass system and are still on the road 20-30 years later, and you know what emissions regulations have done to car design...

My solution was to insert a spacer into the cavity between the valve piston and the spring. Again, because I had access to a lathe, I was able to get some aluminium round stock and make some spacers myself. I put in the 8mm one and found it immediately did what I wanted. I can hear the valve opening and letting the pressure out, but with some flutter at the end. The spacers look a bit cruddy in the photo because I had just made them and hadn't cleaned them yet.



Once I get an intake that lets me hear the turbo better (maybe an ITG CAI?), I might revisit the spacers and tweak it a bit. But right now I'm happy with where it's at, and no complaints from the car.

I've also purchased a set of 215/40/17 Bridgestone Potenza S001s (they had a pretty sweet 4 for 3 deal) and a set of 17x8 Avid AV-06 rims in hyper black that are on backorder. So I'm looking forward to getting those on the car. Getting to replace those got awful lug nuts that come with the car will be great. The ones on there have swollen, and just to get the front right off, I had to take a chisel and cut off that stupid cap.
Why couldn't Ford just use solid nuts...They would have only added a couple dollars to the price and saved them a few lawsuits. So that's why the front right has ugly lugnuts on it. They're the stock ones, but without the stupid caps.





And I almost forgot. I have got a Stage 1 Bluefin tune on it. Folks are right about them, it is a good tune. Easy to set up and it feels mostly stock until you put your foot down and the wheels spin much easier. Those new tires will hopefully turn some of that spin into acceleration.
 
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