[ryst]

Amazingly the most mundane maintenance in a vehicle seems to cause the most controversy. I had used Mobile 1 for a long time in my previous vehicles, but I have seen a lot of negative opinions of Mobile 1 (lots of them with data to back them up). It seems like if you search hard enough you're going to find a group of people who think XXXX oil is the best and people who think XXXX oil is awful or terrible or even THE WORST!

So as per the break in procedures posted by Pelotonracer2 (http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-discussions/277-engine-break-101-a.html) I am running the OEM Motocraft until around 6000 miles then switching to a full synthetic.

So my question is this, for your Fiesta ST what Synthetic are you going to, or are you running, and why?

I'm watching was-an-M's thread where they're posting Blackstone analysis results and racking up lots of miles, and currently running Castrol Edge http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-maintenance/550-blackstone-oil-report-thread.html

I'm thinking I'm going to use Castrol Edge if only because they offer the 500,000/15 year engine warranty, and I plan on having the car for a long time. I see a lot of people saying Liqui Moly or Motul is a good option, but I've also seen dissenting opinions on these... You can't ever win with opinionated car guys can you?

(After searching a bit more I found the thread that I had read originally with oil opinions http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-maintenance/311-oil-oil-filters-what-do-you-like.html If you already posted in there, I have read it but I'm interested in what people think about the Castrol Warranty as well.)

 

[Vixenlotus]

i did a oil change at 200 miles with OEM Motorcraft oil and will move to full synthetic at 3K. I have also always been a Mobile 1 guy but for this car i am going to change it up a bit (due to the bad press on Bob the oil guy). I plan on going with Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 for this car using a Motorcraft filter. Lots of people are saying a lot of very good things about Pennzoil Ultra and it can be bought at Wallmart (along with the Motorcraft filter).

 

[DAC17]

My own opinion (and that's all it is...) is that any synthetic oil rated SN will be fine for our cars. Anything beyond that is only something that would be important to scientists or people who might keep their cars beyond 200,000 miles.

 

[shmi]

I'll also be switching to full synth probably around 5000. Penn Ultra, but maybe Castrol Edge. I'll keep the same 5w20 weight and same oil filter as I don't see any reason to change either one.

I did however pick up a Fumoto drain valve which I plan on installing at my next oil change. Looks like it'll make life much easier since I won't really need any tools to do oil changes:

FUMOTO ENGINEERING

 

[ryst]

My own opinion (and that's all it is...) is that any synthetic oil rated SN will be fine for our cars. Anything beyond that is only something that would be important to scientists or people who might keep their cars beyond 200,000 miles.

Yeah I've seen most oil is acceptable as long as your change intervals are frequent enough. My main concern is the Fiesta is that it's a high performance and has relatively high compression ratio for a turbo vehicle. This is the main reason I'm looking at Castrol, the engine warranty is just a small bonus on top of using synthetic oil, maybe it will pay off, or maybe not, but it's pretty easy to do and reputable (from what I've read). Plus turbo bearings are covered under the Castrol warranty.

 

[ryst]

I'll also be switching to full synth probably around 5000. Penn Ultra, but maybe Castrol Edge. I'll keep the same 5w20 weight and same oil filter as I don't see any reason to change either one.

I did however pick up a Fumoto drain valve which I plan on installing at my next oil change. Looks like it'll make life much easier since I won't really need any tools to do oil changes:

FUMOTO ENGINEERING

I've read about these, big reason I wont use one is that I am switching to a magnetic drain plug (dimple) next change.

 

[shmi]

I've read about these, big reason I wont use one is that I am switching to a magnetic drain plug (dimple) next change.

Yeah see I thought about going that route, but I had a magnetic one in my M3 and it never really picked up much at all so I'm skipping it this time.

 

[airjor13]

I'll also be switching to full synth probably around 5000. Penn Ultra, but maybe Castrol Edge. I'll keep the same 5w20 weight and same oil filter as I don't see any reason to change either one.

I did however pick up a Fumoto drain valve which I plan on installing at my next oil change. Looks like it'll make life much easier since I won't really need any tools to do oil changes:

FUMOTO ENGINEERING

hmm, never seen that before, I like it, it would make motorcycle oil changes easier for sure!

 

[Vixenlotus]

Rather than get the oil drain plug magnet, i just put a few high temp molybdenum magnets on the oil filter. Do it with all my cars, they work great. there is also no need to clean them (like you have to do with an oil drain plug magnet) when you take the filter off the iron gets traped in them andyou just pull off the Magnets and put them on the new filter. I use 4-5 small high power magnets/filter.

 

[shmi]

hmm, never seen that before, I like it, it would make motorcycle oil changes easier for sure!

This is the one I got for the FiST:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OXUPOQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The added benefit is that this will entirely remove the chance that I or anyone else for that matter over-torque the drain plug and strip the oil pan threads.

 

[Pelotonracer2]

Yeah see I thought about going that route, but I had a magnetic one in my M3 and it never really picked up much at all so I'm skipping it this time.

That just means your oil filter was doing it's job.

 

[Pelotonracer2]

Rather than get the oil drain plug magnet, i just put a few high temp molybdenum magnets on the oil filter. Do it with all my cars, they work great. there is also no need to clean them (like you have to do with an oil drain plug magnet) when you take the filter off the iron gets traped in them andyou just pull off the Magnets and put them on the new filter. I use 4-5 small high power magnets/filter.

Only problem with magnets is that they don't attract all metals that are present during the shearing process.

 

[aar0nsky]

No magnet for me and I cant see spending $30 on an oil drain plug. If you are doing a filter change which you should be, it requires work already. Plus laying on your back.

Aside from all that I did my first oil change yesterday. I used the same oil that is recomended in the ST supplement(5w20 Synthetic Blend Motorcraft). I found it at Walmart for 17.97 for a 5qt jug. The motorcraft filter was less than 4 bucks I believe. Thats a pretty damn cheap oil change. I bought 3 more jugs and filters which should last me to 8k and then I will switch to full synthetic.
I will most likely go with Mobile 1. Proven results, just look at the inside of an engine that used mobile 1. The only other full synthetic I have used and liked was castrol 0w40.
If not mobile 1 I will try motorcraft full synthetic 5w20.

 

[shmi]

No magnet for me and I cant see spending $30 on an oil drain plug. If you are doing a filter change which you should be, it requires work already. Plus laying on your back.

Depends how you look at it: that drain valve will pay for itself after 3 oil changes with Ford's drain plug costing $11.50, and will save me money after that. Plus I'll never have to worry about the steel drain plug stripping aluminum threads out of the oil pan, and I've seen my fair share of those from customers bringing cars in after DIYs or taking them to quick lube places. Not too hard to know when to stop tightening, but if I ever let Ford or anyone else do an oil change, $30 is worth the peace of mind IMO.

 

[Brian]

I've read about these, big reason I wont use one is that I am switching to a magnetic drain plug (dimple) next change.

I have a Dimple drain plug in my Ducati. Highly recommended as it was MUCH stronger than the oem magnetic plug the Italians installed.

 

[Wheelhopper]

The only issue with the Fumoto drain valve is that it drains really slow compared to the drain plug being removed. Not a big deal. Just don't be in a hurry when you change your oil.

As far as oil. I use the cheapest full synthetic I can get when oil change time happens and a Motorcraft filter.

 

[audiphile]

am I the only one that makes sure the oil I use has Ford's WSS-M2C945-A spec on it?

 

[shmi]

The only issue with the Fumoto drain valve is that it drains really slow compared to the drain plug being removed. Not a big deal. Just don't be in a hurry when you change your oil.

That's what beers are for! but yeah it will take a while longer to drain out, but I'm ok with it.

am I the only one that makes sure the oil I use has Ford's WSS-M2C945-A spec on it?

I've just been using the exact part number from the supplement I got with my owner's manual so far, but I'll check for that in the future.

 

[Wheelhopper]

am I the only one that makes sure the oil I use has Ford's WSS-M2C945-A spec on it?

Yes.

 

[airjor13]

I might switch to peanut oil over after the first 10K miles, running straight olive oil is really hurting my budget..