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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After installing the AP3, I need to step out a plan to get the most for my money. I have cut the air box and deleted the donut. I talked it over with the wife and she is aware that I am about to invest some coin in the car. I had a plan but now I am re-evaluating it now that I am about to hit "buy" on several items. Tell me what you think.

Here's my intentions to do in the next month (which timing is important as I am between jobs and will not be able to do this after I start back).

1. Silicone intake/induction hose and finish modifying air box to include a piped section that goes behind the headlight. I am not sure how much more flow the Cobb (when it comes out) or any other system will get than this and it will cost me about $140 instead of $300+. If I am wrong about that, someone inform me of how I am wrong.

2. Gold radiant barrier applied to intake box and intake/induction hose.

3. Airtec Intercooler: It's right sized, available and decently priced. I am open to the levels intercooler but know very little about them. Cobb's isn't here and I wouldn't pay that high of a price for one anyway.

4. 2-2.5 inch silicone piping from turbo to intercooler and silicone piping from intercooler to intake with gold radiant barrier applied there too.

At this point the Stage 2/93 octane map will be applied.

This is likely where I will have to stop: BUT if I can sneak some other stuff in, these are my thoughts:

5. Cpe catless downpipe. My question is how can I get it to pass inspection with a catless down pipe? If I can't then I am most likely not willing to spend extra $ for the catted version.

6. Catback exhaust. Except that I am really not sure that the exhaust will get me anything unless I go from the turbo back, which I cannot afford. If a catback is just for sound, I can have my muffler of choice welded in and be done with it. Or I can leave it as is. Do catbacks make gains for this car? I could actually have a shop build one for me.

7. Motor mount: can someone tell me what this does other than provide a measure of safety? How does it impact driving?

7. Lighter wheels. That's a no brainer but an expensive on that may have to wait a year or two.

Before you chime in, I am on a limited budget and am not just going to "spend the extra $ on Cobb because they are the best." Extra money is the problem; I am stretching it to do these things. This plan seems the cheapest way to get the most I can for what I am willing to spend.

Let me know what you think.

ganze
 

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As for the intake be pretty careful. I noticed Injen put a lot of work into the one I bought to match MFR A/F ratios with the learning ECU. I got it for 240ish. Not bad for the size/fittings on it. The non special edition is only about $200. So I would spend a little more to get a nice one, but that is my .02.
 

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Depends on the inspection process. Out here in Albuquerque they just check obd2 and gas cap pressure (jokes on them with this car) your allowed 2 not ready lights. So as long as you don't have a cel your good to go

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Lol! Communist area haha we do need inspection on cars older than 2 years. But then we just give 20$ extra for the inspection and the guy inspects another car like if it was yours.

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Lol! Communist area haha we do need inspection on cars older than 2 years. But then we just give 20$ extra for the inspection and the guy inspects another car like if it was yours.

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You used to be able to do that in CA. Now if the emissions tester is caught, its something crazy like a $15k fine and possible jail time. So its reaaallllyyy hard to find someone who will do that



 
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After installing the AP3, I need to step out a plan to get the most for my money. I have cut the air box and deleted the donut. I talked it over with the wife and she is aware that I am about to invest some coin in the car. I had a plan but now I am re-evaluating it now that I am about to hit "buy" on several items. Tell me what you think.

Here's my intentions to do in the next month (which timing is important as I am between jobs and will not be able to do this after I start back).

1. Silicone intake/induction hose and finish modifying air box to include a piped section that goes behind the headlight. I am not sure how much more flow the Cobb (when it comes out) or any other system will get than this and it will cost me about $140 instead of $300+. If I am wrong about that, someone inform me of how I am wrong.
Having had an Injen intake on the car for a bit before reverting to a modified stock airbox with CAI induction from inside the bumper fascia and swiss-cheesed behind headlight with Cobb filter, the smoothed intake path definitely makes a difference in power output. The Cobb unit basically fixes all the issues the Injen intake had by fitting a heat shield plate over the OEM lower airbox lid and pluming a conical filter into that housing, according to what folks have reported based on their SEMA car's Intake. Personally I prefer the hardpipes over silicon, so that's the way I'll be going once the official Cobb intake comes out. Also 300+ is stupid, I can almost guarantee it will be $299. Just watch. Not 300+, exactly 300. If the Focus ST is $300 please explain why the Fiesta ST version would be more expensive. As a parts merchandiser scouring the internet for parts for our cars and Focus STs, without exception Focus ST stuff costs more than the same part for a Fiesta ST. I think you will be disappointed for the result you get for $140. Oh, and the sum total of my modified OEM intake system thus far including tubing and couplers is $20, including the Cobb drop-in filter. You're $120 over budget.

2. Gold radiant barrier applied to intake box and intake/induction hose.
I have no idea how much this material costs, but if you can get it cheap and make it not look awful, more power to you.

3. Airtec Intercooler: It's right sized, available and decently priced. I am open to the levels intercooler but know very little about them. Cobb's isn't here and I wouldn't pay that high of a price for one anyway.
Go to town, good choice. Any way you slice it a larger intercooler will help make performance more consistent.

4. 2-2.5 inch silicone piping from turbo to intercooler and silicone piping from intercooler to intake with gold radiant barrier applied there too.
good plan, have fun.

At this point the Stage 2/93 octane map will be applied.

This is likely where I will have to stop: BUT if I can sneak some other stuff in, these are my thoughts:

5. Cpe catless downpipe. My question is how can I get it to pass inspection with a catless down pipe? If I can't then I am most likely not willing to spend extra $ for the catted version.
Dude. Joe at 2J racing's catted DP is $398. dude. $398. A catless downpipe for my Volvo cost 1200!!!!!! TWELVE HUNDRED EFFIN DOLLARS FOR A DOWNPIPE. $398 for a catted version is outright cheap. Also, unless you like the smell of unburnt fuel and like soot on your rear end around your exhaust, I would reconsider going catless. It's an extra two bills, but IMO it's worth the extra scratch. I don't make a lot of money either and that's why I have to earn my parts through other means, so I know what you're saying and understand your budget, but it's an extra $200 for the cat, and I really think it's worth your time to get that.

6. Catback exhaust. Except that I am really not sure that the exhaust will get me anything unless I go from the turbo back, which I cannot afford. If a catback is just for sound, I can have my muffler of choice welded in and be done with it. Or I can leave it as is. Do catbacks make gains for this car? I could actually have a shop build one for me.
none of the aftermarket exhausts sound all that different and there is not much power to be had for doing the exhaust. I am leaving my stock exhaust and adding a cobb catted downpipe, personally. For less than 15hp out of the exhaust system, it's not worth the money or the expense/hassle of installing one. I would recommend a catted downpipe and stock exhaust over a decat downpipe and catback for a daily driver.

7. Motor mount: can someone tell me what this does other than provide a measure of safety? How does it impact driving?
LOL no this is NOT a mod about Safety. Have you noticed wheel hop, or felt harshness shifting or otherwise feel the engine moving around? See the thread I posted creatively titled "WHY YOUR FIESTA ST NEEDS AN UPGRADED REAR MOTOR MOUNT" where I discuss this concept in further detail as well as a Cobb R&D video illustrating the very clear problem. The OEM bushings are too soft. As a result, they cannot cope with torquey ecoboost motors. The soft bushings allow for a lot of undesirable engine movement (we are talking INCHES of movement here not something minor) and generally makes driving a lot less responsive. Installing a rear motor mount will improve your driveability, improve traction, eliminate wheel hop and make shifting smoother. Where exactly was safety a part of any of my statements? I'm not sure where you got that idea. It is NOT a safety upgrade, it is a DRIVEABILITY upgrade.


7. Lighter wheels. That's a no brainer but an expensive on that may have to wait a year or two.

Before you chime in, I am on a limited budget and am not just going to "spend the extra $ on Cobb because they are the best." Extra money is the problem; I am stretching it to do these things. This plan seems the cheapest way to get the most I can for what I am willing to spend.

Let me know what you think.

ganze
my replies below your questions

where on earth did you get the idea the rear motor mount was a "safety" item??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for that awesome reply.. That is what i was looking for: education.

The safety assumption was based in ignorance and speculation, things at which I excel. I come from the world of long travel 2wd trucks. I actually know some things about those: but I don't have one anymore.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am now also considering weight reduction. The most basic way to look at it is to divide the weight buy the hp to get the weight savings equivalent of 1 hp in vehicle performance. So in the most broad and general terms for our cars: 2700/197 = 13.7 (ish). So finding a way to drop 100lbs would be (generally) equivalent to gaining 7hp. If some of that is at the wheels, even more is felt.

So, how would one go about dropping 100+lbs and still be able to live with the car? I know some of you have really gone after this, RAAMaudio is one I believe. Keeping the car a daily driver is important, so seat removal is not the best for a guy with three kids. Spare tire? With roadside assistance, am i willing to chance a flat?

Is there a weight savings thread yet? One that is not just wheels?
 
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