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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have done a great deal of searching, called a few places, looked at the cost of CCW, high cost forged wheels, etc....so far this seems the best way to go. I started a new thread as I feel is important info I wanted out in the open, not buried in another thread.

I saw this mentioned elsewhere so looked into it as well as as many options as I could think of, it was not my original idea, I just dug into it to see how viable it is.

As we all know not many good low weight reasonable cost options available in 4x108 so I looked into rebored wheels and then , 5x100 or 5x114.3mm redrilled hubs.....none worked out that well, the easiest thing I have found is changing the hubs to 4x100 as there is room on all parts to do it safely(or so it seems, I will double check with the experts on this of course)

1) Rebore wheels, damage one on the road, need spares, etc.....keep having to rebore more wheels.....not a great option

2) Rebore hubs and rotors for 5x100, not a huge selection of wheels available but better than 4x108, problem, hub flanges would have to be filled in at least one location and holes would be close to at least two stock holes so not super strong......

3) Rebore hubs to 5x114.3, huge selection of wheels, problem, hubs flanges are not big enough and still close to a couple of old holes.

4) Rebore to 4x100, not a huge selection in bigger wheels but enough at least for somebody wanting to run a very good moderate cost wheel like the RPF1 in 16x8. It is possible we may be able to use Mazda 2 hubs so not even have to be rebored!

A big selection in 15" wheels available, very well made, very light weight, great prices, for those wanting 15" track wheels this is excellent!

We add a BBK, talked to Wilwood, theirs is supposed to fit over 15's, will be tight on some and some designs might not fit but many should, just have to have the rotor hats done as well and then just buy new rings when needed.

COST: Not sure yet but to just have 4 hubs and the rotors rebored should be not to expensive, rear rotors last quite some time so over time, especially if running a BBK, hardly any cost at all. If you run stock rotors all around then having them rebored everytime needing new ones might be a hassle but there could be rotors with the right specs off the shelf, have to search and find out.

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Looks like I am going to go this route unless somebody has a better recommendation:
-Rebored hubs to 4x100 or buy Mazda 2 hubs if they fit.
-Get rear rotors bored to 4x100
-BBK rebored to 4x100 for the front
-RPF1 in 16x8 for street and for track wheels (though still considering 15x8 for track wheels/tires)

Any questions, clarifications, suggestions are most welcome.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: If they fit the Mazda 2 hubs are around $90 each, without bearings or retainers which may or may not be needed so the cost could be over $300 just up front, even if just $180 it should cost far less to just get the ST ones rebored instead.

I might just pull a front and rear hub off and take them and at least a rear rotor to my local machine shop tomorrow and get a quote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Enkei 16x8 are +35mm, I would rather have +45 or whatever would center the wheels over the hub flange the same as stock but not many wheels made like that.

Enkei PFO1 in 15x8, +35 as well, 13 lbs, just over $200 each.....there are less expensive wheels that are roll formed as well!

6UL are out of stock most places so wonder how the company is doing, %160 or so each, very strong wheels and super low weight.

New wheel for me at least, Avanti, 15x8 is around 11 lbs and flow formed and I have to look at the offsets again.....15x9 is +35 and 12.4 lbs, hmmmmmmmmm:)
 

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Update: If they fit the Mazda 2 hubs are around $90 each, without bearings or retainers which may or may not be needed so the cost could be over $300 just up front, even if just $180 it should cost far less to just get the ST ones rebored instead.

I might just pull a front and rear hub off and take them and at least a rear rotor to my local machine shop tomorrow and get a quote.
Would be interesting to see if this works out. Would open up a lot more wheel choices



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why not just get the wheels re-bored. I'd guess that would be the cheapest/easiest route to go? I have a friend that has rebored rpf-01's to fit on the e36 m3 b/c he wanted a different track wheel than everybody else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quite a few issues to consider when re-boring the wheels.
-If you have to replace one, have to get it re-bored
-Decide to run different wheels for any reason, re-bored
-All 5 bolt wheels would have at least 2 if not all the holes filled first adding cost, time and potential failure points.
-Most if not all 4 bolt light weight wheels would have to be filled first as well, the area without holes, so a 45degree turn, are not made with enough material there to re-bore
-Setup fee for different wheels if you change them.
-Wheels are much more difficult to put in the CNC machine, take up more space, likely cost more per wheel than simply -re-boring a brake disk.

Benefits of re-boring the hubs:
+One time effort and cost for the hubs
+Rotors can be turned 45 degrees and re-bored in a very solid area
+Rotors do not need to be filled, smaller so easier to handle, one time setup fee if you use the same shop
+BBK, once hats are re-bored then never again in most cases
+Far more wheels available, buy them and slap them on
+Bend a wheel, slap another one on
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the Mazda hubs fit then no work machine shop work to be done and not hard, especially easy in the rear, to swap them over.

It might be possible to find rotors that fit already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just sold stock wheels and tires so have to get the ST on the lift as soon as I put a suspension on the ti project, first then then is pulling the hubs and rotors and off to the machine shop:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LONG DAY, put suspension on TI, reorgainzed shop, moved it to a bay that was full of parts, engines, tires, etc.....and got the ST on the lift and wheels off. I had it up on the lift but could not raise it up very high due to body design and garage door, etc....so I had take it back off, reverse the lift arms(pretty serious job, heavy!) and back the car in and then setup and raise it, gained 8 more inches but still not quite enough to walk under, my ceiling is not real high but I can stoop over a bit and work on it OK.

I have to write up the build plans, parts, prices, etc for the 332ti project I am selling tomorrow and also send a bunch of pics and more info on the Studevette project to the pending buyer for that car then I will start taking the rotors and hubs off the ST to get them over to the machine shop.

I might build an exhaust for the ST this weekend if my back holds up, old injury acts up if I do to much heavy work and today was a tough one.

I am really getting into this car, wish I had less to do around here as I would really go nuts on it:)

Rick
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pulled a front and rear hub off the car this morning.

I ended up taking just a front and rear and still installed in the front knuckle and rear carrier as they have to be pressed out. I wanted to see if he could do it without pressing them but does not look like it, at least that shop does not want to.

I have a press and am going to need more info on any specific issues pressing them out so I do not damage them.

Not going to be a simple operation as I had hoped but not insurmountable and not expensive when considering how many more good wheels are available for 4x100.

I was quoted $25-30 per hub for re-drilling them, far less expensive than new hubs.

Also quoted the same for drilling the rotors.

Ends up this is an old school shop, no CNC machine, so I am going to check other shops as I want to see what kind of price I can get due to needing spares and or helping others get this done. Once a CNC machine is programed it is pretty easy to do more later on.

If the Mazda 2 hubs are indeed the same as all four hubs on the ST that would help as others could just buy them and have them pressed in then get the rotors re-drilled.

I am deciding on the wheel sizes I want to use and might end up making my own BBK, it would make rotor swap a bit easier as not having to re-drill all the time.

There could also be off the shelf stock type rotors that fit one or both ends of the car, if so then higher grade, Cyro treated, may be available for a decent price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hubs and rotors are now dual drilled to 4x100 and 4x108mm:)

I will put it all back together tomorrow but will not have any wheels for a few days or so, have to make a final decision and order them in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ordered a set of wheels and tires today, should have them on Wednesday.


Inclement weather tires/wheels for cold, rain, if get stuck out in the snow which I have a great deal of experience in not using snow tires at all, it is about being smooth and momentum.



205/45/17 Michelin A/S 3 Y rated "all season" (was considering Conti DWS but these will be far more useful if I go to an event and have bad weather)
17x7 Konig Feather, 4x100, +40, very reasonable cost (I chose silver and might spray them gunmetal, etc)

Tires, 21lbs
Wheels, 16.8 lbs
Total, 37.8 lbs



I wanted to run 16x7, the tires just are not made in the size I wanted to use. The DWS was but not the Michelin, I could of saved 4 more lbs per corner!


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Track/autocross/street in good weather.


225/45/15 BFG Rivals, not so great in standing water or the cold, why getting the Michelin setup above, can switch to DOT race tires easily)

15x9, Avanti Storm, 4x100, +35 (I wanted to get the 6UL but not available until fall, this has the largest inside diameter so easier to fit the11.7" BBK)
Tires, 20 lbs
Wheels, 12.2 lbs
Total, 32.2 lbs!


15x9, +35 is going to take some effort to make them work but I have measured, drawn out, calculated, looked over where I can roll the fenders, might have to cut, paste and weld the inner rears......put on a steering limiter for track events, etc...but pretty sure I can do it:) GRM did a test and found they were much faster on a 9" wide wheel than an 8" and they use a 205 on 8" wide wheels for best results on that size wheel. I want more rubber, I want all I can get and the widest stance to help deal with a tall and narrow car. I will deal with torque steer, scrub, etc, the best I can with castor, camber, toe, roll center, etc, I have a digital caster/camber gauge, toe plates, strings, scales......and I will keep my eye out for what others have done and proven or dis proven;)

And I will gladly share all I learn, of course!


Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a set of Hoosier R6 in 225/45/15 that are a couple of years old though barely used, might not be serviceable on track but great for test fitting, fender rolling, etc....and a bit wider than all other 15's I know of so any 225/15 will fit if I make the Hoosiers fit.
 

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Hey guys. I was asked by one of your members to come over from the FocusFanatics forum because you needed inexpensive hub redrilling. I haven't gotten permission to sell yet, but I do hub redrilling to 4x100 or 5x108 for $120 plus shipping. That includes ALL of the hubs and rotors. And if you want spare rotors drilled, I do them for $10 each on top of the $120 for the initial order, or $30 a pair later.

Hopefully this doesn't get deleted, I am going to message the owner asap.

Obviously I'm not in this to make a ton of money, just like helping fellow car dudes and dudettes.

PS: I am an aerospace machinist specializing in extremely high tolerance conventional (manual) machining. You will generally pay less for simple machining jobs if they are done manually. CNC takes a lot of setup time and costs more per hour. It's more meant for production or highly complex jobs.

Rant over...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great to hear from you and great prices and obviously you will do a superb job at this!

Do you have access to the machines or know somebody that can make rear camber shims for twist beam axles? The specs were posted somewhere on one of the forums.

Please email me, [email protected]

Thanks:)
Rick
 

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Great to hear from you and great prices and obviously you will do a superb job at this!

Do you have access to the machines or know somebody that can make rear camber shims for twist beam axles? The specs were posted somewhere on one of the forums.

Please email me, [email protected]

Thanks:)
Rick
All I need are dimensions or an example piece. Send me some pics if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have the engineering drawing or whatever it would be called, very detailed, I need to send it as an email.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will email it right away if you want to take a look. I believe it is setup for a CNC machine so just plug in the numbers, etc.
 
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