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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I just got an AP today and flashed the stage 1 93 map onto my otherwise stock FiST. With the stage 1 map the car actually felt a little slower than stock, I thought this was weird because I'd heard that the gains were noticeable even on a stock car. So I switched to the stage 1 91 map to see if there would be a difference, still none. Finally I flashed to the stage 0 map, which I thought was the stock-like map for when fuel economy was desired. The stage 0 map felt faster to me than stock or stage 1.

For a car with no modifications is the stage 0 map where to start? The cobb website leads you to believe that the stage 1 map is for a stock car (or stock with the drop in filter).

Anyway, I'm very happy with how it is right now, it feels a little faster on the stage 0 map and I'm seeing much higher than normal economy on highways. (Though much worse when getting into any sort of boost)
And I'm looking forward to the catted turbo back in the future, and the AP will help with that :)

Any help is appreciated!
Thanks
 

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Stage 1 should be the quicker than the stage 0 map. It should be a noticeable change from stock, if even just due to the removal of the torque limiting in 1st and 2nd.
 

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Are you certain that you have good fuel? It's possible that you have bad fuel and it's having to retard timing since it doesn't have anything lower than the rated octane for the program you have loaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses!

The fuel I'm using is from the local Exxon, it's rated 93 on the pump.

I didn't notice any difference in 1st and 2nd gear with the stage 1 map, though it is around 100 degrees out today, maybe it's having to account for the heat.
 

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There's a log variable you can look at to verify the octane the car has measured. You can also check boost and ignition timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I looked over the logs I created while running the stage 1 map. Which data point measures the measured fuel octane?

Anyway, it looks like during my WOT pull, the "Ign Corr. Cyl1" goes from 0 through to 3.75 (degrees) over the 5 seconds or so that I maintained WOT. So from what I've read this means that the map is too aggressive for the fuel octane used which implies that the octane from the pump is not actually 93?

I'm going to check again running the stage 1 91 map and see if the timing correction is still there. If it's not then I know that the gas I'm using is not actually 93.
 

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This is what is measuring your fuel octane. Anything greater than -1 means your fuel isn't up to par. If it's not -1 right away, don't be afraid to drive it a little to see if it adapts, but if it doesn't come down to -1 within a few miles then you need to switch maps (or better yet, fuel stations).

Seeing positive corrections to ign timing is a good thing (relatively speaking) because it means that the map is conservative enough for safety. If you're seeing negative corrections then either your map is too aggressive or you have a problem to fix. Ideally you want to see either 0 to +1, which would mean your map is pretty solid.

If you were reading constant +6 corrections (example), you would want a more aggressive map.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Awesome! Thanks.
Mine reads -1 in all conditions. Though as I was driving I did start to notice an increase in power, namely in first the tires start squealing about halfway through the gear...
I think I'm going to chalk this up to a miss-calibrated butt dyno. ;)

Thanks for all the help!
 

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No problem!

Any time you re-flash you'll want to drive around for about 30 miles, gradually increasing the intensity. This will help reestablish the fuel trims. After that is when you will want to make your observations.
 
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