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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This might not do much for the stock turbo power band except cause it to spool a bit faster but it is sure going to help with a GT25 or GTX, etc...turbo upgrade.

I tried to get some good pics of the rough casting, ridges, etc....but just could not get good enough lighting and focus inside as so dark. I cleaned it out and still no luck so you just have to take my word on this, it needs done!

Still a work in progress and the results are much more impressive than my pictures show.

Steel Auto part Metal


Two middle ports to show the difference in opening them up a bit and cleaning up the flow. I am looking at getting a flexible shaft so I can do the whole inside as well, I have a flexible color camera I will use to see if I can get better pics and do a good job deeper inside.

Auto part Automotive super charger part Exhaust manifold Pipe


Outlet was worse than it seems in this picture.

Auto part Carburetor Engine Automotive engine part Metal


Better now, I am testing different bits, etc, to get things smoothed up as possible.

When porting there are a few rules to doing it right, these are the simplest but very important ones.

1) always leave enough material to not weaken the part
2) always match precisely from port to port if you an ensure no offset when bolted up.
3) #2 is tough to do so an easier way it to ensure the outlet is smaller than what it feeds into and even if no lined up there is not direct flow blockage
4) match the port volume as close as you can, in this case not possible with the inner to outer ports being so different but do the best you can.
5) CLEAN it out completely before reinstall
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have had better luck using a round stone bit than my carbide ones, I have several carbides, long, tapered, short, long shank.

It is actually ported more than it looks in the pictures, will flow quite a bit better though I will open it up more in the merge area if I can get a bit where I need it. My long shank bit is so long it is a bit hard to operate so I might cut off some of the shank and try it again.

I need something to really smooth it out well, using little screw on rolls of sandpaper on special shafts right now but running out of them as it seems to eat them right up.

I need something really smooth, round, a little giving so as not gouge, hmmmmmmmmmm

I just took a break and made the end pipes for the IC, either I am going to practice on the spool gun and give it a go or just have my buddy TIG them on.

Thanks:)
Rick
 

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Dos the exhaust manifold have a built in catalytic converter (mani-cat) like all the other non-turbo Ford cars? They also have a secondary cat downstream of this, which is what I thought was in the downpipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have never used a spool gun or TIG on aluminum, I have a pretty new MIler 211 and spool gun, newer welder and gun, just thought I might test it out as have a lot of material to do it on......

I will just have my local guy TIG it up, just 4 perimeter welds, pretty easy for him.

I did make the IC mounts and welded them to the front bumper beam, second time I had to take it off, a bit of a pain to put back on by oneself! While off I added a few more holes to the crash sensor cross bar and more to the bottom of the radiator support but forgot to take pictures, oops.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just talked to my welder buddy, spool gun does not work so well on thin aluminum so I will just have him TIG up the IC and the few welds the intake I build will need.

Picking up the exhaust and DP tomorrow, they are ready to put back on:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have to haul a couple of truckloads to the dump today, cleaning out the place as packing up to move as soon as the place sells, and the car is done of course. Then go pick up the exhaust and DP, drop off the IC, come back and take some pics of it all.

AND, I had looked at the gasket on the engine but had forgotten to look at it on the manifold, the engine ports line up nicely but the manifold ports are off centered quite a bit, it seems it may of been enough to have the flow hitting the at least on one side, this is not good to have happen.

I will mark and then ensure to hone it out to have no chance of that happening.

One thing I am not doing is porting the manifold. I am honing it out and port matching but not to make the ports larger, just ensure good flow, enlarging the ports to lead to slower boost response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As for a bit to get down all the way into the manifold on the two outer ports would require a flexible shaft on the bit and none can be found after quite a search and numerous calls.

One option, use a flexible shaft from a rooter and weld a bit on one end and a shank on the other and then be very careful to ensure it is inserted before spinning it and also not to get it stuck and twist the flexible shaft. This could be more difficult than it seems to make it work and safely.

Second option, Extrude Hone, $$$$$ and for just a couple of inches per the two outside ports.......it would make the rest really smooth as well but I would only do this on a race car built to a set of rules that allowed it and needed to be done to be competitive in class.

Any other ideas?

Thanks:)
Rick
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I agree, extrude honing, especially after what I have done and what little time it will take to make it the best I can would provide very little gain for the cost.

Bean counters, markiteers, corp fuel mileage requirements, etc....and they know we are going to mess with it so they give us some room to do so and still keep it relatively safe.

Just a bit bigger turbo and more open DP would of made it to fast against the Focus as well, part of the markiteers input.....

LSD should of been an option or standard, at their cost it could of been well under $1k.
 
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Ford should do what Dodge did with the SRT4, come out with an upgraded turbo and associated bolt ons.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Latest improvements:)

I had forgotten to match the manifold gasket to the manifold, I had done it on the head and it looked good but as you will see below, there was enough offset that the exhaust flow could easily of hit the edge of the intake port.

Stock end port.



Other end port already opened up but not checked to see if centered over the head port.



Fully opened up to the edge of the gasket. Of course the head port is a fair amount smaller but the gasket fits nicely centered on them, this will ensure the cleanest flow into the manifold and also helps prevent revision when the the outlet port is smaller than the inlet port.



As noted here or elsewhere, I am only port matching or stepping as in this case and cleaning up the rouge interior of the manifold, it will not be enlarged a great degree by doing this work in order to ensure it spools the turbo sooner.

It will still flow more and allow more top end power will enhancing lower end power when I put on a bigger turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am keeping my 2012 Duramax dually stock except a Banks intake and dual exhaust tips though I would love to tune it, I tow a big load and a 100k warranty on an expensive engine and transmission....

ST, mod, mod, mod, pop it, I will most likely eat it but hugely less costly than the truck and would not leave me stranded, the truck will be towing our house and garage all over NA.
 

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The fist motor is $3200. Pretty cheap by modern car standards for sure.


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I know right and the tranny I priced at 1700ish with a 600$ core charge though :( or I would have gone that rought to do my LSD install...
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Preface:
If I spelled that correctly, been a long day, up very early, working on the car, the 4runner, the Duramax, to the city to get more abrasives, picking up the exhaust, dropping off the IC, gas station, picking out some cheeses and other great stuff at the market there, a few phone calls, sold a gun, having a few relaxation beverages now..........

------------

I forgot about the last two turbo 4 bangers I had, one was the same engine as a Corolla, the other came in the Camry. Both were blown up, one by a bad shop, second by a bad tune. I was able to buy under 5k mile engines for under $700...because in normal use they do not blow up.

I guess for $3200, turbo, exhaust, intake, etc.......costs I could find a way to stuff the forged LS1 in my shop into this car, it just needs the heads ported to make 600 HP on 91 octane, NA.......

Obviously that is stupidly nuts overkill unless you want to spend $200k+++++++on an AWD..............Ken Block fun machine but I am not that good, or even close, I mostly highly doubt.

If not counting a butt load of time I could do this for around $6k, not counting the engine I already have, and not AWD or a $40+k gear box, just simpler parts but effective......

That is just not me, I still believe a solid well running street/track car like this with 275 or so WHP is more than enough fun and in many ways faster than a 300+++++car that has lag issues.
 

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Rick... I'm just saying... Escape awd bolts upto this motor, lol...


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Now that's an interesting idea Haha

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It does have a tunnel for a drive line, exhaust would be a bit interesting to make it fit.......

I will stick with FWD, I actually like a fast FWD a great deal and I have had some fun in modified AWD which I find to easy, and RWD which is quite fun of course but the challenge of FWD is just more interesting to me for some reason.
 

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Kinda off topic, but since your kinda pioneering the way on this at the moment. I imagine this car has a balance shaft, wonder if it could be removed like in the mazdaspeeds and srt4. Free up some HP, free up some weight, and less rotational mass!

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Removed balance shaft and lighter flywheel would be great!

Lighter pulleys as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just did some research, ST version not specifically listed but the 1.6 ecoboost does have a balance shaft.

It might set off DTC due to vibration if removed or could be even worse, not advisable to do it, I will have to let others find out.
 
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