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Have had mine installed for about 2 months and over 2k miles and ZERO issues - car's drivability is 100% intact and stock "feeling", until you push the pedal on the right….then she goes a LOT faster (for a Fiesta, that is)! Surprised the crud out of my Dad in 3 back to back races against him in his '10 Mazdaspeed 3. I would CERTAINLY recommend it!
 

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I gave out two Turbo Transformers to a couple local Fiesta ST guys (Ronnie and Chris) and both of them have been very happy with it and did notice increased response especially in higher RPMs. No CEL (wrench) icons reported yet.

It's been covered in detail but the dude who developed these, though his website leaves a lot to be desired, actually has a decent little product that just needs better marketing. The website, I think, is why people wouldn't take him seriously. The dude's day job is coding engineer at Dinan Engineering in the Bay area, if he's good enough for Dinan, I trust his expertise in the subject. Engineers don't always make pretty things, they make things that work.

Used my car as the demo how-to vehicle. Worked fine for me.

Don't run it in conjunction with an accessport, use one or the other so they don't conflict with each other.

A lot of folks got their knickers in a bunch over it, at the end of the day it's an entrepreneur trying to break into the market, I think he's going to sign up as a vendor on one of the forums soon.
 

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I don't think anyone got their 'knickers in a bunch', I just don't think people are able to read a discussion about the merits of using an actual tuner versus a MAP-clamp without adding emotion to the conversation.

I know people are desperate to get more power, but spending half the price of a used AP3 for something that can only barely do one function doesn't seem to make sense and I don't understand how it passes people's common sense test. This exact product has been rejected by many other communities for that exact reason, but the FiST community seems to embrace it despite a complete lack of actual data.

So many people have gotten the free demos, but for some reason no one has done any data-logging or a simple before/after dyno comparison. All that is ever reported back to the community is personal opinion, which I would expect to be positive with a free/reduced-cost product, and nothing legitimate to actually substantiate the claims.

MAP clamps have their purpose of tricking ECU's on vehicles that don't have aftermarket tuning support. We, otoh, have tuning support, and that tuning support has the capability of altering not only the one-single section of data that the MAP-clamp alters, but all the rest of it as well.

In4dynoresults

Inb4lock
 

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Its not a MAP clamp, it fits between Boost Pressure/Charge Air Cooling Temperature (TCBP/CACT) sensor and changes the signal voltage to the ECU. It still fools the ECU and raises boost pressure between 1-3 psi.
The ECU still receives the absolute pressure signal from the MAP sensor located in the inlet manifold to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion and influence the advance or retard of ignition.
Do these two sensors work together?. I don't know .
 

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This thing reminds me of the little resistor mod that people used to sell on Ebay. All it did was change the signal that the sensor was sending by a fixed amount. It would then lean the fuel out a little and make the car have more power. They were real inexpensive though.
 

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Its not a MAP clamp, it fits between Boost Pressure/Charge Air Cooling Temperature (TCBP/CACT) sensor and changes the signal voltage to the ECU. It still fools the ECU and raises boost pressure between 1-3 psi.
The ECU still receives the absolute pressure signal from the MAP sensor located in the inlet manifold to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion and influence the advance or retard of ignition.
Do these two sensors work together?. I don't know .
Then we can call it a Boost Pressure Clamp, but it's still a clamp. And that's exactly why I'm surprised there has been no data collected to support its validity and back up it's $200 'value'. If it's supposed to be so good, why can't any of the users provide data showing it's benefits?

To put it another way, if a member showed up on the site claiming that a newly-designed fuel additive added 5% hp without any sort of proof other than their sop review then most members would theoretically call it snakes oil. This is really no different in concept-if you want to sell me on something then you have to actually sell me on it, and that isn't going to happen just by 'claiming' a power increase. Collect data and present it.

Considering the fact that I know more backstory of how the creator has been given pretty easy instructions on how to become a vendor on other forums yet continually tries to back-door the system...it just doesn't sit well with me from either an admin or a consumers perspective. Most other site members picked up on this rather easily, but in the power-hungry we-aren't-getting-mods/support-fast-enough FiST community it's embraced by certain members that can't seem to collect proof yet expect others to just fall on their overly-positive reviews.

Again, I'm not saying it doesn't work-I can't possibly know without seeing legitimate end-user data. I just assume that it can't justify half the cost of a used AP3 and question the need considering the fact that we already have full-control over the ECU. Telling me it's safe simply because someone's been using it and hasn't blown their engine doesn't exactly work.
 

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Then we can call it a Boost Pressure Clamp, but it's still a clamp. And that's exactly why I'm surprised there has been no data collected to support its validity and back up it's $200 'value'. If it's supposed to be so good, why can't any of the users provide data showing it's benefits?

To put it another way, if a member showed up on the site claiming that a newly-designed fuel additive added 5% hp without any sort of proof other than their sop review then most members would theoretically call it snakes oil. This is really no different in concept-if you want to sell me on something then you have to actually sell me on it, and that isn't going to happen just by 'claiming' a power increase. Collect data and present it.

Considering the fact that I know more backstory of how the creator has been given pretty easy instructions on how to become a vendor on other forums yet continually tries to back-door the system...it just doesn't sit well with me from either an admin or a consumers perspective. Most other site members picked up on this rather easily, but in the power-hungry we-aren't-getting-mods/support-fast-enough FiST community it's embraced by certain members that can't seem to collect proof yet expect others to just fall on their overly-positive reviews.

Again, I'm not saying it doesn't work-I can't possibly know without seeing legitimate end-user data. I just assume that it can't justify half the cost of a used AP3 and question the need considering the fact that we already have full-control over the ECU. Telling me it's safe simply because someone's been using it and hasn't blown their engine doesn't exactly work.
I agree to a point, we need a dyno read-out with AFR and Boost data.
The important point here is that it is Not a MAP clamp and the MAP sensor is the one calculating the engines air mass flow rate.
Raising the boost pressure is hardly rocket science, I,ve done it myself many times from simple air bleeds to stand long EBCs back before we had the luxury of being able to tune ECUs. As long as the AFR didn't lean out and this is my main concern with raising boost pressure there was never a problem.
Anyone that drives a turbo-charged vehicle should develop a keen ear for detonation.
The above is my option and I'm done on the subject, people may start to suggest I'm selling the product when really I just have a open mind about it.
 

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The above is my option and I'm done on the subject, people may start to suggest I'm selling the product when really I just have a open mind about it.
There's a difference between having an open mind about something and discussing it versus trying to sell something. It doesn't seem like you're trying to sell anything to me, not that my opinion really matters.

And you were exactly right, things like this were needed before having the luxury of being able to tune the ECU. Now that we have the luxury, is the need really there? Is there really $200 worth of gain? If you were tight on money, would you rather spend $200 now on this device with no documented proof of gain or would you save another $200 and buy a used AP3?

Given that exact situation, I now have a used AP3.
 

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There's a difference between having an open mind about something and discussing it versus trying to sell something. It doesn't seem like you're trying to sell anything to me, not that my opinion really matters.

And you were exactly right, things like this were needed before having the luxury of being able to tune the ECU. Now that we have the luxury, is the need really there? Is there really $200 worth of gain? If you were tight on money, would you rather spend $200 now on this device with no documented proof of gain or would you save another $200 and buy a used AP3?

Given that exact situation, I now have a used AP3.
Well I'm not done, last word freak?, lol.
As far as documented gain, people seem more than willing to fork out 600 bucks for a exhaust or IC with no data or 200 bucks or more for a pod filter on a piece of tube that does nothing other than suck in hot air (hold the hate mail, this is my option) and make a heap more noise but the something related to the ECU is black magic.
The guy selling these TT need to market it better. Forget the dyno pulls, he should start by painting the device red with yellow polka dots. Lol.
 

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Well I'm not done, last word freak?, lol.
As far as documented gain, people seem more than willing to fork out 600 bucks for a exhaust or IC with no data or 200 bucks or more for a pod filter on a piece of tube that does nothing other than suck in hot air (hold the hate mail, this is my option) and make a heap more noise but the something related to the ECU is black magic.
The guy selling these TT need to market it better. Forget the dyno pulls, he should start by painting the device red with yellow polka dots. Lol.
dyn came up on a STEAL if you got an AP V3 for $200. Mine got stolen and I had to pay $250 for a new one from Cobb and even then that was a fat deal

also while everyone asks for Dyno sheets people also seem to be under the impression that everyone has a dyno in their garage and that the use of the dyno and the technician to run the dyno is free or cheap... lol, that would be awesome if that were the reality
 

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Nice bump.

dyn came up on a STEAL if you got an AP V3 for $200. Mine got stolen and I had to pay $250 for a new one from Cobb and even then that was a fat deal
Did you even read my post? What you're saying isn't remotely correct to what I posted-

If you were tight on money, would you rather spend $200 now on this device with no documented proof of gain or would you save another $200 and buy a used AP3?
Cliff notes: Add $200 to the original $200 for a $400 used AP3.

also while everyone asks for Dyno sheets people also seem to be under the impression that everyone has a dyno in their garage and that the use of the dyno and the technician to run the dyno is free or cheap... lol, that would be awesome if that were the reality
Www.virtualdyno.net/

So yeah, it is free for someone with an AP3 and a computer with internet.

Plenty of you have stated that you had both the TT and the AP3, yet no one seems to be able to produce any data-whether that's datalogs, V-Dyno, or a paid dyno. If I was going to personally put my seal of approval on something I would make sure I had some form of actual data to show for those that want to see actual data. If I didn't have the data but someone wanted it then I would make a reasonable effort to collect it.

Nothing more, nothing less. Maybe I should just make this my signature-
Again, I'm not saying it doesn't work-I can't possibly know without seeing legitimate end-user data. I just assume that it can't justify half the cost of a used AP3 and question the need considering the fact that we already have full-control over the ECU. Telling me it's safe simply because someone's been using it and hasn't blown their engine doesn't exactly work.
Some of the previous TT users have even stated since that they really had no idea of just how powerful of a tool the AP3 is and are glad that they have since moved forward.
 

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one of the more cerebral members over on the focus side did a VERY detailed write up on this device. The results surprised everyone I think, especially me
 

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one of the more cerebral members over on the focus side did a VERY detailed write up on this device. The results surprised everyone I think, especially me
Well, my Turbo Transformer(s) arrived for review, and I've already finished within the 6 hours I've had them.
I took my time and made my challenge mostly for the entire Ecoboost community, to see if a device like this can work, and why/why not it will.


I will come right out, and say I'm indeed biased against devices like this, and am a huge skeptic of claims without some raw data being released for verification.
I don't like devices like this, but I promise I did not let that skew the results, as that would be irresponsible of me.


Before I talk about the device, I want to talk about @ameya. He was quick to respond to my challenge, and even though I was critical of his work, his was easy to work with and never for a minute (at least not vocally ;) ) resorted to taking my criticism harshly or as a personal attack. I appreciate his professionalism, and his willingness to meet all of my conditions to prove his work.
As far as I'm aware, Ameya is the only guy behind Turbo Transformer, and as someone with some experience in getting electronics products out the door, he's already done the hard part. He has his product out there, he has supply of parts sorted out (logistics is the #1 killer of electronics projects), and he had to make a lot of sacrifices to get this out there.


If you take away anything from this whole thread, take away that. I think he has stepped up to the plate, and he has earned my respect for doing so.


Now onto the fun!


My review of the product, the Turbo Transformer.
Ameya actually sent me TWO Turbo Transformers, one of the current design, and one of a newer design he is thinking about using going forward.
I will only be showing pictures and logs obtained from the newer design, though I will comment on where the older one varies.


I took some photographs (and I apologize to any photographers here, as my photography skills are lacking, as is my equipment.) to give people an idea of how it works.
View attachment 67133 View attachment 67135
So, this is what it looks like, against some "engineering" paper with the bold squares being 25mm x 25mm (Just under an inch by an inch for those of you who prefer imperial).
It's pretty basic, giving you the two connectors, one that goes into the TIP sensor and the other to plug in the harness to. Both make a good water-tight seal and I actually prefer
the male connector on the Turbo Transformer than I do the harness, as it has a better seal.
The wire is stranded 1mm wire, which is a little heavier than I expected, but it's pliable enough it should last.
The old design has shorter wiring, which makes it a little harder to install, so I imagine this one has them lengthened to help ease installation.


The case is a simple little project enclosure, with the logo silk screened onto it. There is a grommet for the wires entering, to help minimize the chance of the case ever cutting them and to help seal it up when it's closed.
View attachment 67136
The case opens pretty easily, like most project enclosures do. (Yes, I am a 20-something with beautiful hands!)


View attachment 67137 View attachment 67138
Surprise! Those of you in the Arduino world may recognize this. It's an Arduino Pro Mini, which is a small microprocessor.
Unlike standard "resistors" or the chip MCM has, this is basically a tiny little computer, and it can actually get stuff accomplished.
The old design had a similar Arduino Pro Mini by another manufacturer. The new design uses a pretty common (and more robust) design from Deek-Robot.


So what's it do? Well, we have the red and black wires coming in to Power and Ground respectively, and the white wire going into an analog input (which reads voltage),
and the yellow wire coming from a pin on the chip capable of PWM, which is used to output a variable duty cycle wave (which will be read by the the ECU as a voltage).
Inside, Ameya has code that would essentially map the input voltage to a different set of output voltages, so this chip "lies" about what the current TIP reading is.


Both boards were also coated in a conformal coating, which helps the circuit function even if it gets dirty, dusty, or even wet, which is a nice thing for the elements this
would be exposed to.


Some negatives:
- Directly soldering wires to a board is prone long term reliability issues, as vibration, tugging, etc directly effects the solder joint, which isn't capable of holding much stress. It would be nicer to see a connector used internally or sticking out of the case from the board.
- The board is just sitting in the case. There is no mounting point for it, so it is prone to vibration and movement issues. This can compound with the previous issue.


Next up, we have installation. It's straight forward, though if you can Houdini it like the video, you must have skinnier arms than I! I simply went from the bottom by popping the bottom cover out under the bumper, and reaching in that way. The connectors are pain in the ass to remove, especially if you have an aftermarket intercooler like I do with an angled mounting point, and I swore approximately 62 times during the installation.




So what you've all been waiting for:
Does it work?


My initial premise was the ECU would compensate by closing the throttle as load would be higher.
I was correct, and the ECU does its best to prevent the excess boost.
However, the ECUs response time isn't fast enough or strong enough, and it struggles to control load enough, so you do end up with a higher boost, and a correspondingly higher load.


The ECU does hold it back some (and oscillates slightly), but the lying works well enough to give you more boost, more load, and the ECU correctly compensates for the load with more fuel, so your fuel trims stay exactly where they were.
This is superior to a MAP sensor lying outright, which causes fuel calculations to be off, as this will have them on. In this regard, this solution is better than the BoostMAX in my opinion, as it doesn't have to rely on the closed-loop fueling to correct its mistakes.


This device does not really benefit you above 5000RPM, where timing is the only savior, but it does benefit you down low by adding more boost. You get more torque, and it is indeed noticeable on the butt dyno. I also got more wheelspin down low where I did not previously only slightly spun on the pure stock setup.


Because of the higher boost, but not higher fueling, there was a slight bit more timing retard, but the stock tune will quickly adjust that out, and high end horsepower will be the same as stock. Down low though, you will notice the extra torque.




So what do I think?
I think Ameya rose to my challenge, and his device worked to increase low-end power in spite of the cars torque control strategy. (You will note that I am also fully "Stage 3" which allows me to run similar timing on 91 Octane stock as 93 Octane vehicle, and the timing rises up to the stock tune ceilings thanks to my intercooler. So adding bolt-ons [specifically an intercooler!] does help an otherwise stock car slightly).
I think he passed, and I will honor my end.
@ameya, feel free to send me an invoice. You know my credentials ;)


Positives:
- It works.
- Fuel trims are in line.
- Knock is as expected and the car adjusts as is appropriate.
- No CEL (not even a pending one!)


Negatives:
- It lies about a sensor. This is inherently not as safe as using the true measurement.
- It loses all benefits once you can tune, unlike other mods.
- Tune is FAR easier to install




Of course, I now look at price/performance gain. And it's good. Better than an intake and CBE on the stock tune. About par with an intercooler.
The device is really only about $50 production cost, but I will remind people, production costs aren't the only cost. Buying one of these also pays for Ameya's work, his website, his marketing, and as a small business, he does not get all the benefits of economies of scale. He started this in his spare time, and is just trying to offer a cheaper alternative to other solutions on the markets, and his works.


In comparison to other piggybacks (I'm looking at you BoostMAX!), Ameya's is better. No fuel trim problems, install is easier, and it's cheaper for the same gains.


However, in comparison to the benefits of a true tune from an AP or SCT, it's obviously lacking in every department. Many of you realize this, and consider this to have no market place because of that. I agree, and I dislike piggybacks in principle, but that doesn't mean they aren't the right choice for some people.




Also, I now release to all, actual DATA.
Turbo Transformer Datalog
Stock Datalog


Notice how TIP is the same in both (Ameya does a good job of blending the lie with some truth), but boost and MAP are higher. Fuel trims are similar between the two, and I tested in similar conditions or both runs, after having a fresh flash, I drove approximately 25 miles with varying engine conditions, and then did the logs. The Turbo Transformer runs were done with ambients of 63*, and the plain stock with 71*. While this would be enough to make a difference, the difference is minor via standard SAE adjustments (about 2-3hp/tq more expected from the Turbo Transformer runs, which VDyno is NOT accurate enough for reproducibility within that range.), and Turbo Transformer nets about 20-25 extra wtq down low.


As a comparison, I have my own 91 tune as well, same gas, same weight, etc. Obviously the AP wins out for total performance/$, and is the only way to really get more power above 4500ish RPM when the turbo starts its downhill slide as only timing can fix that.


TL;DR
View attachment 67141




TL;DR Pt. 2
Is it worth $200? That's up to each individual buyer. But at least now, I hope, they have some data they need to ease that decision.
Does it work? Yes.
Is the producer a nice guy? Yes.

found it
 
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