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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anybody ever hear of the cooler being removed?


I have the water lines pulled and oil filter off but there is nothing apparently I can unbolt to pull off the cooler housing so either spun on and have to pull the AC compressor out of the way or drop the pan to see if bolted from inside the block. It would be a press fit as well. I just hope it can get it off and bolt on the Mocal oil cooler plate as really do not want to leave it on, dead weight and much less room for routing big AN lines and using a bigger oil filter.

I might drop the pan and take a look as do want to delete the balance shaft(s). I have no info on doing so on this car so hopefully no major issues in doing so, I doubt it, talked about on other threads but it seems no body has done it or at least posted about it.

As for the water to oil cooler I had not looked over the hoses before this, I figured they came from the radiator but not so, one is teed with the line to the overflow tank and into the block, the other goes to the heater core in the dash. That makes it easier in a way, just hook the two lines together.

I am considering an almost flat mounted oil cooler behind the air dam under the bumper, cut a hole in the dam, duct air up and into the cooler and out the back so to keep the weight real low but above the danger zone of bottoming out and keep the hot air from hitting the radiator.

Also going to open up the radiator shroud while at this.

Doing all I can for cooling as well be making some serious power before long:)
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Tab to remove stock cooler.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Interesting findings.

1) cooler housing does not mount from inside the block.

2) windage tray installed.

3) balance shaft(s)s are not below the crank, cannot even be seen from bottom of engine unless perhaps pulled the windage tray, might be difficult to pull, not sure about disable

4) crank has great support in a girdle/main cap design.

5) oil pickup is low and centered in pan, I do not think we need to add baffles or worry at all about starvation, I would be surprised if it happened.

6) pan is structural

7) no gasket, just silicone, love that!

8) I took some pics, will post later, pan is back on now, nothing there I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am sure they spun the cooler on, there is a little locking tab bent over between braces cast into the block. I am looking at the AC comp, starter, etc..to see about moving them out of the way.

I just hope there is a normal oil filter attachment there, it would make putting the Mocal plate on real easy, if not I might have to keep the stock cooler in place just not hooked up. One could run a separate water pump and core with it though instead of the MoCal plate and oil cooler, more to go wrong though with an electric pump but I am going to consider it. I had one for the engine in my race car but it was expensive and for all the water cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I could not find one in the cut away drawings but they did not show the bottom of the engine so I thought it might be down there but not so.

There does not seem to be enough width in the block to have one there either but perhaps it is some weird design.....on the front of the engine???
 

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The oil/water cooler looks to be the same as the Boss cooler offered in the 2011+ boss engines. They also have a tab to fix the cooler, as it is a twist on type of sandwich plate. Just bend it up and rotate it off.

Check out this vendor for an air/oil intercooler. There are also much cheaper alternatives.

www.rehagenracing.com
 

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Webt through the Ford manual looking at engine assembly and it no where mentioned installing any type of balance shaft only crank to case pistons to rods rods to crank oil pump feed oil pan then both cams and the rest of the top end with only the one timing bely no other gears or chains or belts..



 

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Went through the Ford manual looking at engine assembly and it no where mentioned installing any type of balance shaft only crank to case pistons to rods rods to crank oil pump feed oil pan then both cams and the rest of the top end with only the one timing bely no other gears or chains or belts..

And As I was doing that it reminded me of the Honda B series and K series motors I played with from time to time..



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wonder if the regular car has the balance shaft but not the ST? Or if this engine is even used in other cars at all, none turbo version....or similar but different at the same time......???

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I already have the parts for an oil cooler install, Mocal tstat plate which is very good and the fixing nut fit perfectly, it goes through the center of the plate and screws onto the stock oil filter threads, hollow, then has threads at the other end to screw on the filter, luckily for me it was the same as the car I last had it on:)

I also have all the AN fittings and lines needed and a cooler I can use but not the best one for this setup due to car design, IC, etc....I do not want to block the radiator with it so looking into a wide and short one for under the car, behind the opened up air dam but ducted so I can be a bit higher up and safer then ducted out the back of it.

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Now that I have the stock cooler bypassed, plate installed, etc I might just run it that way for now. I am afraid if I pull off the stock cooler it will have some sort of twist lock mount but no threaded mount so no simple way to add the Mocal plate I need to use.

It might require machining a part which could be pretty costly. Perhaps once more start turning up the power and running on tracks, weather warms up, more might need to add an oil cooler and we could go together and get a batch of the parts made???

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I have also been thinking over what the effects might be to run both coolers, it would be very easy to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pictures posted:)

I will take some of the plate installed over the stock cooler later today, I forgot to take them last night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had already seen the Wiki link, cutaway pics, etc....I see no place for a balance shaft which is great as if nothing to removed, figure out if an oiling issue, etc.....

Dry weight for the 1.6 is just 251lbs and the 2.0 is 77lbs heavier at 328lbs, the 1.0 is only 38lbs lighter, we get the most displacement per lb, cool:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I really want to take it off for less weight, easier to change oil filters and use a bigger filter but also fit a thicker radiator when available. All I have been able to determine is it has some sort of 1/4 fastener which I would have to find a good way to put on the Mocal plate and nothing has come up yet that I can and know I will not have any issues.

Maybe I will find a really smashed car at a yard some day I can experiment on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Info is on another forum.

Pan does not need dropped, I did mine just to see what was on the other side, nice windage tray was cool to find.

12mm hex driver, I had to buy a longer one than what I had in a set, 2.25" long, ratchet, counter clockwise turn.

Comes right off.

Then you need a way to mount it back on, on the UK Mocal site they have an adapter, basically just a section of pipe in the correct thread and diameter.

I found a brass hex male coupler at a local hardware store that worked, it could be a tad longer but held up well for and on track, I have looked for another but not found anything like it.

I also replaced the hose that goes to the heater core from the cooler with hose from NAPA and a brass pex fitting and clamps, had to cut the hose off at the Y before it fed the cooler as it changes size there.

Later I pulled the Y out, it is held in with a clip, o ringed seal, removed a tab and flipped it over so I could run a shorter hose.

Sorry no pics of all this, pretty simple to figure out once you take a look at it though.

Replace the filter with a much larger one, easy way to add oil capacity, get a bit more cooling and more filtering, I use NAPA gold filters, mine is # 1355, made by Wix, best value in quality filters I know of.

I always use push on fittings and rubber AN hose as lighter, lower cost, does not damage things it rubs against, lots of racers use it, I have for many years but I do clamp it and the lowest weight ones are SS crimp bands used for flexible ABS sprinkler systems.

Hope this helps:)

Rick
 
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