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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, the track has not been kind to the front brakes on my FiST. After 15,000 miles, I have already been through 2 sets of OE pads and 1 set of Hawk DTC60.

The front brakes on our FiSTs just can't handle the amount of heat the rest of the car can generate. So, instead of spending the $500 or so to put OE components back on, I put that money plus a little extra toward a larger caliper and rotor. My goal here is not to increase braking torque, as the FiST already excels in this category, but I am after larger heat sinks to help keep the FiST braking repeatedly.

First, the carnage:






This was after 1 track day (four 20 minute sessions) on the newly installed Hawk DTC60 pads and new OE rotors!


After getting the car on the lift for disassembly, the amount of heat that was generated covered quite a few components (thanks to my work for access to a covered workspace, air tools, and a lift!):








The lower ball-joints in the LCA are not protected by the heat shield




Brackets weren't far enough away from the heat, either. Also, look at the shape of the backing plate on the piston side pad!




Rotors took a decent amount of heat, too:




Now to the fun stuff!


That's a big caliper for such a small car:




Parts waiting to go on:




OE vs Wilwood Rotors:








OE vs Wilwood Calipers:





I forgot to weigh the Wilwood calipers before they found their way on the car and got filled with fluid, but TCE said they weigh-in around 4 lbs 7 oz. That's a difference of 10 lbs per corner with everything added up!


Installation was very straight forward. Since Wilwood provides very detailed instructions there isn't much that I could add. However, due to the heat damage to the LCA ball-joint boots, I was inclined to find a way to make the OE heat shields fit to protect the ball-joint on the outer tie-rod end from a similar fate. In stock form, the shields curve toward and partially around the OE rotor. With the Wilwood rotors being larger in diameter, they would no longer fit. I did find that the shields could be swapped to the opposite knuckle and with a little trimming they bolted right back on:




Tie-rod end ball-joint still protected!




After everything was tight and the brakes bled, the wheel goes back on and get to stand back to admire the beauty!





I want to give a big thanks to Todd at TCE Performance Products for making this kit available. If you guys have any questions or braking needs, he is definitely one of the first you should ask!
 

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They look great. Keep us updated on how they perform
 

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Todd is awesome, know him from the SRT4 world. Can't believe how your stock brakes look. I'm sure the wilwoods will be a massive improvement!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Todd is awesome, know him from the SRT4 world. Can't believe how your stock brakes look. I'm sure the wilwoods will be a massive improvement!
That's kind of how I knew about him, as well. We have a mutual friend that races the baddest Skittle there is, Doug Wind.
 

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What pads are you running? IF they came with the BP10 street pad don't use them at the track! I spoke with someone from Wilwood who suggested the Polymatrix B pads for the track. For the Street I run the BP20 pads which are perfect. The Polymatrix pads have insane stopping power, but for the street they're too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What pads are you running? IF they came with the BP10 street pad don't use them at the track! I spoke with someone from Wilwood who suggested the Polymatrix B pads for the track. For the Street I run the BP20 pads which are perfect. The Polymatrix pads have insane stopping power, but for the street they're too much.
The BP10 pads came with the kit. I'll look at running one of the more aggressive pads for the track.
 
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