Here's a basic oil and filter change for those wanting to try or do it themselves, but need
a little guidance before 'diggin' in'. I made it as complete as possible... more experienced
folk might find it overkill... Do not attempt this maintenance if you feel you're not adequately skilled!
Needed for this maintenance:
(5) Quarts (4.3 by the book) 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic Motor Oil
(1) Oil Filter - Motorcraft FL-910S or equivelent
(1) Oil catch pan
(1) Funnel (optional, but neat.
(1) Fender cover (not shown here... I use an old terry cloth beach towel)
(1 or more) Oil rags (not shown)
(Large piece of cardboard to prevent oil staining the driveway... also optional)
(1) 3/8" Ratchet Wrench with a 1/2" socket
(1) Oil Filter Wrench (Strap Wrench and 3/8" drive cup wrench shown)
(IF this is the car's 1st oil change, you'll want something to add leverage when
removing the original filter, I have the combination wrench there JUST for that!)
...and...
your preferred way of lifting the front of the car up. I used an old 2x6 under the front right tire.
This was just enough room to get the job done for me. I also chock a rear tire, for safety.
![Image]()
NEVER change your oil when the engine is HOT. I wait a minimum of 30 minutes after running, to allow the oil to settle, and cool off.
1) Drive car up onto ramp, or jack car up, ensuring the parking brake is set, engine is off, transmission is in first gear and a rear tire is chocked for safety.
![Image]()
2) Open hood of the car, put your fender guard in place, and remove the oil cap, leaving it loose, covering the oil fill. Place your spill mat (cardboard) under the car.
![Image]()
3) Grab your Ratchet wrench with the 1/2" socket, and your drain pan, and crawl under. The oil drain plug is located on the back of the
oil pan on the right side, as you look up at the oil pan. Loosen the drain plug (no oil should come out) a few turns, put your drain pan in place,
then remove the plug. Drain all the oil out (give it 5 minutes) then clean the drain plug with a rag, wet the rubber gasket on the drain plug with
a little oil, and replace the drain plug. Tighten it with your ratchet wrench, and draining is done.
![Image]()
4) Your oil filter is located on a block surrounded by hoses (why make it easy?) just in front of the oil pan. You'll
see this from under the car:
![Image]()
5) Remove the filter with your preferred filter wrench. If this is the original filter, it was tightened down by gorilla with a breaker bar, so keep this in mind.
After the filter starts turning, put your drip pan in place. once it's loose enough, some oil will drain out. Keep your drain pan in place, and finish removing the filter,
and more oil will pour out. Now weasel the filter out to the right, between the hoses... it takes a little finagling.
![Image]()
Here's the first wave of oil after you loosen the filter... It'll get even messier as you remove the filter itself. The floor cover is a very good idea here. Just sayin'!
![Image]()
6) Prep the new filter for installation by coating the rubber gasket with oil. I dip my finger in the oil, and wipe it around the entire seal. (You've got a bunch of it in your drain pan!)
![Image]()
7) Clean the surface the oil filter gasket mates to with a clean rag. You want this surface smooth so the new gasket
seals properly.
8) ALWAYS put your oil filter on BY HAND to avoid cross threading. Screw the filter all the way on, by hand, as tight as you can get it,
then give it a 1/4 turn with your oil filter wrench. Going past hand tight isn't usually necessary (believe it or not) but I give it a little extra
to make sure it stays put. (This works out to about 1 full turn after the gasket makes contact)
9) Double check your oil drain plug before you get out from under the car... you can't be too careful!
10) Refill your car with (4) quarts of oil, wait a minute, then check your oil level. There should be oil on the dipstick.
![Image]()
11) Put your oil cap on, make sure you clear the top and under side of the car of tools and rags, put the car in neutral, and start your engine.
This will allow the oil filter to fill with oil. Get under the car, and inspect the oil filter where it meets it's mating surface for leaks.
Also check your drain plug to make sure it's not dripping either. With no leaks, you can back your car off the ramp(s)
or shut the car off and lower the car (jack) , wait 15 minutes, then top off your oil to show full on the dipstick. Oil level readings
are most accurate on a level surface, so don't do your final check with the car still up in the air.
12) Make sure your oil fill cap is secure! Make note of your mileage (I have a maintenance log I keep for each vehicle)... then GO FOR A RIDE!!!
![Image]()
a little guidance before 'diggin' in'. I made it as complete as possible... more experienced
folk might find it overkill... Do not attempt this maintenance if you feel you're not adequately skilled!
Needed for this maintenance:
(5) Quarts (4.3 by the book) 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic Motor Oil
(1) Oil Filter - Motorcraft FL-910S or equivelent
(1) Oil catch pan
(1) Funnel (optional, but neat.
(1) Fender cover (not shown here... I use an old terry cloth beach towel)
(1 or more) Oil rags (not shown)
(Large piece of cardboard to prevent oil staining the driveway... also optional)
(1) 3/8" Ratchet Wrench with a 1/2" socket
(1) Oil Filter Wrench (Strap Wrench and 3/8" drive cup wrench shown)
(IF this is the car's 1st oil change, you'll want something to add leverage when
removing the original filter, I have the combination wrench there JUST for that!)
...and...
your preferred way of lifting the front of the car up. I used an old 2x6 under the front right tire.
This was just enough room to get the job done for me. I also chock a rear tire, for safety.
NEVER change your oil when the engine is HOT. I wait a minimum of 30 minutes after running, to allow the oil to settle, and cool off.
1) Drive car up onto ramp, or jack car up, ensuring the parking brake is set, engine is off, transmission is in first gear and a rear tire is chocked for safety.
2) Open hood of the car, put your fender guard in place, and remove the oil cap, leaving it loose, covering the oil fill. Place your spill mat (cardboard) under the car.
3) Grab your Ratchet wrench with the 1/2" socket, and your drain pan, and crawl under. The oil drain plug is located on the back of the
oil pan on the right side, as you look up at the oil pan. Loosen the drain plug (no oil should come out) a few turns, put your drain pan in place,
then remove the plug. Drain all the oil out (give it 5 minutes) then clean the drain plug with a rag, wet the rubber gasket on the drain plug with
a little oil, and replace the drain plug. Tighten it with your ratchet wrench, and draining is done.
4) Your oil filter is located on a block surrounded by hoses (why make it easy?) just in front of the oil pan. You'll
see this from under the car:
5) Remove the filter with your preferred filter wrench. If this is the original filter, it was tightened down by gorilla with a breaker bar, so keep this in mind.
After the filter starts turning, put your drip pan in place. once it's loose enough, some oil will drain out. Keep your drain pan in place, and finish removing the filter,
and more oil will pour out. Now weasel the filter out to the right, between the hoses... it takes a little finagling.
Here's the first wave of oil after you loosen the filter... It'll get even messier as you remove the filter itself. The floor cover is a very good idea here. Just sayin'!
6) Prep the new filter for installation by coating the rubber gasket with oil. I dip my finger in the oil, and wipe it around the entire seal. (You've got a bunch of it in your drain pan!)
7) Clean the surface the oil filter gasket mates to with a clean rag. You want this surface smooth so the new gasket
seals properly.
8) ALWAYS put your oil filter on BY HAND to avoid cross threading. Screw the filter all the way on, by hand, as tight as you can get it,
then give it a 1/4 turn with your oil filter wrench. Going past hand tight isn't usually necessary (believe it or not) but I give it a little extra
to make sure it stays put. (This works out to about 1 full turn after the gasket makes contact)
9) Double check your oil drain plug before you get out from under the car... you can't be too careful!
10) Refill your car with (4) quarts of oil, wait a minute, then check your oil level. There should be oil on the dipstick.
11) Put your oil cap on, make sure you clear the top and under side of the car of tools and rags, put the car in neutral, and start your engine.
This will allow the oil filter to fill with oil. Get under the car, and inspect the oil filter where it meets it's mating surface for leaks.
Also check your drain plug to make sure it's not dripping either. With no leaks, you can back your car off the ramp(s)
or shut the car off and lower the car (jack) , wait 15 minutes, then top off your oil to show full on the dipstick. Oil level readings
are most accurate on a level surface, so don't do your final check with the car still up in the air.
12) Make sure your oil fill cap is secure! Make note of your mileage (I have a maintenance log I keep for each vehicle)... then GO FOR A RIDE!!!
