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Stereo upgrade questions

20K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  mongoose221  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

New to the forum here. Bought a 2014 FiST with navigation and the Sony sound package 3-4 weeks ago and have been pretty disappointed with the stereo. Primarily the problems I have with it are 1) it doesn't get loud enough, i.e. during highway driving with windows down I can't really hear the music, and 2) the sound quality just isn't all that impressive. My previous car was a Toyota with a JBL system and it was head and shoulders above the Sony system in my FiST. I'm interested to see what others have done to solve these problems and have a few specific questions.

I think doing anything with the radio itself is impossible since it's so integrated so that means I'm left upgrading speakers and/or adding amplification. I was considering replacing the four door speakers and adding an amp. I see that the front doors have integrated tweeters near the door latches - does anyone know how those are hooked up? Is there a crossover in the door that splits a single channel between the tweeter and the regular speaker?

I'm hopeful that replacing the factory speakers and adding an amp is enough to wake the system up, but I've also considered adding a subwoofer. I noticed that there's some room in the back where the spare tire sits. I was thinking about ditching the spare (I'm rarely more than a few minutes from someone that can give me a ride if I got a flat) and putting a sub + amp in that space. Has anyone else done that? If so, got any pictures?

In terms of adding one or more amps, where's the best spot to route the power wire? Also, I assume I can get a converter to convert one of the factory speaker channels to an RCA for the amp but how do I handle the remote wire to turn the amp on if the car must retain the factory radio?

Also, if I add an amp to the factory speaker locations, I assume I'm going to have to do a bit of rewiring. Can anyone chime in as to how difficult that will be and if I'll need any special tools to do it (i.e. for removing door panels if I'd have to do that)?

Thanks for any advice!
 
#2 ·
I have similar concerns, but I really have no answers for you. But for the sake of bumping the thread, ....
I have had my fist for only a week, and the system(?) is just-weak.
I litsen to a lot of heavy metal, lots of beasties, old school rap (im 42,it was new to me)
It is deffinately lacking bottom end. a lot of speed/prog metal has massiv base drops in its music, and brass monkey aint sh$t without bass
m planning on alpines for the doors, and putting in my polkaudio a/b amp with a 10"jl. the overall volume dosnt bother me, it seems loud enuf, just sound like crap.
Powering up the amp isn't issue, its were to find the remote turn on. Some body round here has had to have done it old sckool.
I would tap the keyd power, but all the intergrated stuff in this car, I don't want to hurt the poor thing.
 
#6 ·
Had no idea there was a factory sub option. Quick search turned install instructions up which has a lot of great info on running power wire.

The factory sub appears to be about $500, which seemed a little high to me. Does anybody know what the specs of the factory sub are?

I think replacing the door speakers and adding an amp would go a long way and doing that would probably negate the need for a sub.

Anybody done that?
 
#7 · (Edited)
The only factory sub option I found was for a Focus Hatch or a Fiesta Sedan.
Honestly, I'd rather install the Kenwood KSC-SW11

Amazon.com: Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer: Car Electronics

It has good reviews and its only $155. I made a mockup cardboard box to fit under the passenger seat, and this one comes just under the mockup I made. It also has really good reviews.


For $500, I'd have to see something for this car worth spending the extra $350 on.....



EDIT: Even the manual vrtigo posted says it is for the Fiesta Sedan. Has anyone bought this and confirmed it fits the hatch?

EDIT EDIT: YEP, even the manual says it installs on the underside of the back shelf in the trunk:

35. Position the subwoofer enclosure (A) into place by
first maneuvering the subwoofer enclosure (A) top
bracket behind the trunk lid hinge spring and then
lining up the two plastic pins in the bottom of the
subwoofer enclosure (A) with the two holes in the
metal trunk pan. Press down firmly on the subwoofer
enclosure (A) to seat the pins into the holes.
 
#8 ·
The kenwood sub seems like a great value, but at 75 watts rms I kind of doubt it would satisfy most people that want a dedicated sub. If I go with a sub, i'm going to go with something like a 10" kicker l7 solo baric so I know i'm not going to have buyers remorse and end up selling it at a loss in 3 months to buy something better, but again I think just replacing the stock speakers with better ones and adding an amp will do wonders for the sound quality.
 
#10 ·
Doesn't that make contact with the floor under full excursion?
 
#15 ·
Sorry guys phone wasn't updating the thread.
I actually googled an installation from a guy mkviist I think was his name, from another forum. Shows wiring and everything.

It shows how to tap into the ignition wire for the sub control.

The sub is the rockford fostgate rs2-1x10 prime shallow enclosure, on Amazon with dimensions listed there :)
 
#17 ·
I wonder if you could purchase (or fabricate) an addt'l cargo "shelf" like the one that was already included in our cars when we purchased them, secure that in the lowest mounting position, mount an amp and "shallow mount" woofer (or one of those all-in-ones) to that and then use the original shelf, secured in the upper most mounting position, as both a cover and for all your cargo carrying needs. That seems like it would be a VERY clean and "out-of-sight" install….! :)
 
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#19 ·
Was this in response to me? "the other forum"?