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Hey guys, It was repaired successfully. Trouble was the blend door actuator located up behind the knee airbag. First I was told they may need to remove the dash, but fortunately not. The dealer was able to repair in 1 day after receiving the parts. Lovin my FiST.
 

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Do you have an appointment with your dealer set up? Keep me in the loop with this.

Meagan

I don't, not yet. I haven't had the time to get this taken care of yet. When I make an appt, I'll fill you in! Thanks Meagan!
 

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Hey guys, It was repaired successfully. Trouble was the blend door actuator located up behind the knee airbag. First I was told they may need to remove the dash, but fortunately not. The dealer was able to repair in 1 day after receiving the parts. Lovin my FiST.

Was it covered by the warranty or an extended warranty such as the MPP?
 

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I have the same issue. Appointment with my dealer next Tuesday. I'll let you know...
 

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This clicking just started today and I am out of warranty. Dang. But it's the first issue I've had ☺
 

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Mines doing it to, just started a week or so ago (it just got warm out). I was also having issues during the winter with the air blowing out all of the vents even though I just had it set to defrost....go figure this would happen after the warranty goes out...being that this seems like a fairly common problem I think they should extend the warranty (like the did with the sync APIM) or issue a recall on the defective actuator...
 

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Mines doing it to, just started a week or so ago (it just got warm out). I was also having issues during the winter with the air blowing out all of the vents even though I just had it set to defrost....go figure this would happen after the warranty goes out...being that this seems like a fairly common problem I think they should extend the warranty (like the did with the sync APIM) or issue a recall on the defective actuator...
My car started last doing it in March. I replaced the air door actuator on April 1st and it was fine all weekend. I get almost to work this morning and turn off my heat. Guess what...it's doing it again. I don't know if I just got a faulty part or what. I'm kind of pissed. It was a pain to replace the part. There isn't much room in there for a screw driver. I should have filmed it because there are no Fiesta specific videos on how to do this simple repair.
 

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Finally ordered mine. If you have any tips let me know!
 

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My dealer looked at the car. They agreed that it was the blend door. They told me the part was out of stock nationwide. They'll call me when the part is in. It will be covered under warranty. (I hope it's OOS because they're designing a better part.)
 

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We are having this problem with our project car....very annoying:( anyone know what the part number is for the replacement part?
Thanks
 

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Seven months later and still no blend door.
 

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How do you replace the blend door actuator that is clicking in the middle of the dash

My car started last doing it in March. I replaced the air door actuator on April 1st and it was fine all weekend. I get almost to work this morning and turn off my heat. Guess what...it's doing it again. I don't know if I just got a faulty part or what. I'm kind of pissed. It was a pain to replace the part. There isn't much room in there for a screw driver. I should have filmed it because there are no Fiesta specific videos on how to do this simple repair.
I have not been able to find a video or step by step guide for replacing this actuator! Help!!:(
 

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i also would like the part number for the repair and maybe a vid would be nice. my fist is heavily modified and i don't want the dealer noting it in their system..


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Just replaced this in my 2014 Fiesta with 56,000 miles.
Here is my story.
I ordered part number YH1935 for @$34.00.
Part received was YH1895 which should also work. Part was replaced.
Afterwards, no more clicking. However, the air only came out the defrost no matter what button was pressed.
Pulled the new motor and with power still to it, found it does spin. But when pressing the various buttons, it did nothing.
So out came the new part and here is a comparison. The circuit board is missing which I believe is the brains of the unit which tells the motor when to stop turning depending on what location you selected for the air to come out of.
compare.jpg

The new part is on the right. The original is on the left. I don't know if I got a bad part or if this 1895 is not supposed to come with the board..
Here is the bag it came in;
part bag.jpg partnumber.jpg

The number stamped on the part was nearly identical as well;
part.jpg

Other than the date, the original part above had what looks to be a BB next to the FoMoCo stamp whereas the new part had a FA (I think). Everything else was identical.
The good news was that the green circuit board lifts out of the old motor and can be placed in the new motor. The 3 middle contacts are connected to the board. The gear under the board must follow the board as there is a metal contact on it that allows the board to read it's position.

Now to the replacement.
I don't have too many pictures but the 1st replacement took a couple of hours because it took a while for me to figure out how to get to the darn thing.
First off, here are the tools you will need;
tools.jpg

Torx T-50 to remove seat
10MM socket to disconnect negative side cable to battery and remove air bag. I used a 1/4" drive with a 10MM deep socket. One of the air bag bolts is tough to get to as it is sort of behind a brake pedal sensor but this size socket fit.
Small screwdriver to remove retaining clips
Large screwdriver to help push clip posts on airbag panel
Ratcheting right angle screwdriver with a Torx T-20 bit

First, disconnect negative battery cable
Next, remove the 4 T-50 bolts holding the seat in. Disconnect the electrical connection to seat.
Remove seat so you have room to work.
Next you need to remove the blue brake pedal sensor so you can get at one of the bolts holding the plastic/air bag unit in.
This turns counter-clockwise about a 1/4 turn and then slides out of the metal bracket. This is the sensor removed;
Brakesensor.jpg
Next is the air bag removal and this took me some time to figure out as I've read in previous posts to be careful and not break the retaining clips.
The plastic panel under the steering wheel has the air bag attached to it. This is all one unit. Don't try to pry the plastic panel off!
So the method I used is;
Looking under the steering wheel into the cavity between the steering wheel and the top of the plastic/air bag piece, you should see a green retainer clip at top on either side. If you insert the long flat head screw driver in there and push on the clip as you gently pull that part of the panel, it will pop out. You are not trying to remove the clip in any way, you're just pushing the end of it as you pull on the panel. Once both top clips are loose, you need to unscrew the bolts holding the air bag/plastic in place. Laying on your back under the dash (see image below) you will see a metal bar. Feel on the engine side of the bar for two bolts with nuts on them.
This image is looking up as I lay on my back. You can see the metal bar and my socket is hanging on the easily accessible bolt. Left side of image is engine side. Bottom of image is center car side;;
airbag.jpg

Once you get both nuts removed using the 10MM deep socket with a 1/4" drive, there are four more clips (aside from the two you loosened earlier).
Two clips are on the sides at very bottom near that metal bar. You should be able to see them (look for green) and you can press on the end with your finger as you pry the plastic. Once the two bottom clips are loose, climb out from under the dash and look into that cavity under the steering wheel again. You should now be able to see the two middle clips. Using the long screwdriver again, you should be able to use the same method to pop these loose. I would think it would take some force to break the tabs and/or clips but take your time. Once the air bag is free, don't jerk it out yet. There is an electrical connection. Might be a good time to remind those that may have not disconnected the negative from the ground to do so now and wait a few minutes. To remove the connection, use the small flat head to gently pry the orange clip lock straight up. Once you can grab it with your fingers, pull it straight up and off the connector. Once the orange piece is removed, pop the connector straight up with the screw driver.

Now that the air bag is out, you should be able to see the offending motor. I did not get an image of this but if you look up and toward the center of dash, you will see it. You can also You Tube it but if you look at the new motor to get an idea of what it looks like, you should have no problem finding it. There is a red retaining clip on this electrical connection. Pull this completely off. Next, on the connector itself, there is a tab in the center you have to press in order to unplug the connector. Once this is off, there are two screws holding the motor in. As a precaution, I shoved some rags down into the area below the motor to catch the screw if I happened to drop it as I removed them and sure enough, I dropped one so this saved me big time. Both screws are T-20 and using that small right-angle ratcheting screwdriver ($4.00 at Harbor Freight), you should be able to get them out. The bottom screw is easily accessible. The top screw is diagonal from the bottom screw and is a little tight and seems to give people fits but with this right angle screw driver, while a pain, was not super bad.

Once removed, this is what I would recommend.
The gear post on the motor has a flat spot so it only fits into the female gear hole one way. You need to align these but do not try to adjust the motor post by forcing it. You can reach into the cavity where the motor goes and turn those gears to get the female portion close to where you need it. What I would recommend is reattaching the negative cable to the battery now. With the motor hanging loose and the electrical connector attached, turn the car ignition to accessory and with the heat/air on, press the various buttons (floor, defrost, dash) and make sure the motor post turns. If not, you might be missing the green circuit board too!. If it does trun through those settings, set it for floor and once the motor stops, turn ignition off. The reason for this is, when on defrost, the position of the post makes it tough to align the motor post with the female gear. I would guess this is why these motors are failing. Once you get the motor in place, if you turn the ignition back on and select defrost, the motor will turn to open (or is it close?) the door fully but the door is closed fully slightly before the motor stops turning so my opinion is this is stressing the gears and causing these motor/gears to fail. That's just my opinion. But for ease of installation, turn off ignition when in floor or even dash setting. Then line up the post until it slides into the female gear. Once the post is partially in, you can rotate the motor until it is lined up with the screw holes. There are also alignment pins the motor fits into. I would suggest once the motor is in place but before putting the screws in, turn the ignition back on and cycle through the settings and make sure they all work fine. Again, when you hit defrost, you might feel the motor lurch/torque as it tries to force the vent door farther than it goes. If you are satisfied, put the screws back in. I did not tighten these super tight because I wanted to allow some movement for the motor when it hits the end of it's travel and perhaps lessen the stress on the gears. That was my thought, right or wrong.

Once the motor is back in, don't forget the red retaining clip on the connector. Don't forget to remove the rags or whatever you used to stuff into the cavity to catch falling screws. Next, disconnect negative from battery if it is still connected. Not sure if this is needed but I ain't chancing it. Reconnect electric connection to air bag remembering orange retaining clip., Re-insert the air bag and gently press the panel at the 6 clip locations until it is in place. Next, put both nuts on the air bag module. Put the brake sensor back in place. Put seat back in, plug in connector, and bolt in place.
Done.
 
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I have the same problem , dealer told me it would cost me 250$ to look at it. I said to myself "hmmmmm temporary rod knock sound for 8 seconds or 250$ down the toilet" can you guess what I picked lol? Yup you Betcha , temporary rod knock still to this day :)
 

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My car just started doing this yesterday. Currently at 48.6k miles. I'll most likely DIY after reading Mbuccy's post. thanks for the detail write-up! By any chance is this covered under the 50k mile warranty?
 

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Thanks for that tutorial helped a lot today. I ordered part # YH-1935. This part was slightly different that the one it replaced. I opened it to check for the green board, and it was not there. However it did had something different, some black bracket I'll show in pictures. Also one of the guiding pings didn't fit, I hat to expand the hole in the new part with a knife in order to make it fit. Tested it and worked perfectly. So.i guess this part is either a revision or idk what because it didn't fit out of the box. Here are some pictures. The pin I mentioned is the star shaped hole. You can see that in the original one it goes straight in the star. On the replacement the star shape is cut in a Bit shape, I had to cut it straight with a knife in order to make it fit. Also you can see the bracket I mentioned that replaces the board. Also the gear mechanism is different. The one with the green gear is the replacement part.


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